Rishikesh is a hub for trekkers. It is the pick-up point for many of our Himalayan Treks — Brahmatal, Ali Bedni Bugyal, Deoriatal-Chandrashila… A majority of our trekkers choose to stay back for a day or two and explore Rishikesh. And why not! With the River Ganga flowing with all her grace and hills rising just off her banks, Rishikesh is an extremely charming town. 

My grouse with trekkers is that they end up doing the usual touristy stuff in Rishikesh, amongst large crowds, spending more than they should. 

So today, I want to share with you some off-beat experiences in Rishikesh. I got in touch with some of our expert Trek Leaders and keen travellers to make this list.

“One valuable tip I’ll give is to plan your Rishikesh tour after your trek and not before your trek. Before a trek, it’s best to come directly from home, at your fittest, freshest best, without any tiredness from travelling. Consider a visit to Rishikesh as a post-trek experience,” advices Dushyant Sharma, Senior Trek Leader at Indiahikes. Taking this advice in mind, let’s jump right into our list.

1. Take a walk along the banks of River Ganga from Lakshman Jhula to Ram Jhula

At about 4 or 4.30 in the evening, start your walk from Lakshman Jhula from the other side of the main road. The crisp evening air, the canopy of trees and the tinkling Ganga cruising along with you keep you wonderful company. The beauty of Rishikesh, pregnant with meaningful silence, will sing to you beautifully. By the time you reach Ram Jhula, you’ll be right on time to witness the breathtaking Ganga Aarti.

It's a serene walk by the turquoise water of River Ganga. Photo by Jothiranjan

2. Witness the Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat

At 6 pm, make sure you have the right view at Triveni Ghat because the Ganga Aarti is a must-see on your Rishikesh checklist. Situated right next to Ram Jhula, the Triveni Ghat is going to be crowded for the Ganga Aarti, but the experience will be worth it. 

You can still find a quiet moment to reflect quietly while you light lamps and send them floating on the waters of the Ganga on the other side of the Ghat.

Bonus Tip: There are two viewpoints from which the Ganga Aarti can be enjoyed. One is through the temple and the other is from the shores of the riverbank on the other side. Take a short walk from the GMVN to the riverbank to find your viewpoint.

“On a quiet day, you can find sadhus giving religious discourses along the banks of the river. Join in silently, if you wish,” says Arjun Majumdar, the founder of Indiahikes.

While you are here, don’t forget to treat yourself to a variety of street food outside Triveni Ghat. From traditional Indian Chaat to Chow Mein and Momos, you will find a mélange of snacks. (Make sure you use your own cutlery here, avoid any disposables!)

The Ganga Aarti is a must-see on your Rishikesh checklist. Situated right next to Ram Jhula, the Triveni Ghat is going to be crowded for the Ganga Aarti, but the experience will be worth it. Photo taken from Indiahikes Archive

3. Food joints you must visit in Rishikesh

A lot of people suggest the vegetarian restaurant at Chotiwala. All of us at Indiahikes feel it is overrated.

Instead, venture into any of the continental Cafes that you find on the way to Lakshman Jhula. Beatles Cafe is one of our Trek Leaders’ favourite haunts. 

“Many of these cafes have amazing vegan options, sometimes even rarer than what most metro cities have. For instance, I found a vegan Apple pie and Carrot cake at Tattv Cafe, which I’ve rarely seen anywhere else. So you get a lot of vegan food in these cafes,” says Lakshmi Selvakumaran, the Head of Experience at Indiahikes.

There is also a famous German Bakery near Lakshman Jula. The bread and pastries here are a must try.

Bonus Tip: The Parmarth Niketan Ashram in Rishikesh is a spiritual center that conducts daily prayers, Yoga and meditation classes. In the afternoons all the visitors are treated to a simple yet sumptuous lunch, free of cost, by the Ashram. This makes for an experience in itself.

4. Take a break at Rishikesh’s most famous Lassi spot

On the main road in the Old Rishikesh market, there is a small Lassi place that is famous in all of Rishikesh — Pappu Lassi. Head over here to get your fix of cold Lassi.

5. Start your rafting at Shivpuri waterfalls

If there’s one thing that Rishikesh is famous for outside of the Ganga Aarti, it is rafting. But most trekkers start their rafting experience at Byasi or Kaudiyala. 

My recommendation is that instead of starting your rafting experience at crowded spots, start at Shivpuri waterfalls. Situated 16 km above Rishikesh, you get a wonderful experience of rafting in the wild waters of the Ganga all the way down to Lakshman Jhula. (You could even dive off a cliff into the river on this route.)

Bonus Tip: The Paddle India and Himalayan Outdoors are some of the in-house favorites when it comes to rafting in Rishikesh. Head to their website for more information.

The Lakhman Jhula over river Ganga. Photo by Jothiranjan

While you’re at Rishikesh, be sure to visit her twin town, Haridwar, if you have the time. Hardiwar is just around 20 km away. The Tandai and Rabri that you get from the street vendors here are to-die-for.

Bonus tip: We already spoke about the Ganga Aarti at Rishikesh, but don’t miss the Ganga Aarti at Har ki Pauri when you’re in Haridwar. The Ganga Aarti is a spectacle that you can experience multiple times in many different places and it would still render you awestruck every single time.

7. Experience the Hostel Culture of Rishikesh

Hostels are not only just inexpensive and safe, but also add a certain charm to the entire Rishikesh Experience. “I haven’t seen such a thriving hostel culture in most places in our country, not even the tourist-friendly Manali,” says Lakshmi. 

The best part is that many hostels like Live Free Hostel host events, walking tours and other group activities themselves. You meet people from all walks of life, backpackers and travellers from all over the world and get a chance to learn from their experiences.  

Bonus tip: Don’t miss the very interesting Hippie culture of Rishikesh. It’s something you will experience first hand in these hostels and also in the cafes around Rishikesh.

8. Go Bungee jumping at India’s Highest Bungee jumping point

Located around 52 km outside of Rishikesh, you’ll find the highest Bungee jumping point of India at Mohan Chutti. Though bungee jumping has become common in many places in India, this was the first and still is the highest point for Bungee jumping in India.

You could either take a cab To Mohan Chutti or avail the cab service of the Bungee jumping organisation.

Additional tips for travelers in Rishikesh 

– To commute in and around Rishikesh, use Vikrams. These are shared autos, and have very minimal charges.

– It is also very easy to rent Scooters to drive to longer distances in Rishikesh.

That brings us to the end of this list of things to do in and around Rishikesh. 

If you have done something interesting, or found any other rare experiences in Rishikesh, we’d love to know about it. Our trekkers are also waiting for more tips. So make sure you leave a comment below and help us out! 

Rishikesh attractions and things to do. An expert list put together by experienced travellers and trekkers

8 Things You Must Do in Rishikesh that No One’s Heard Of

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It’s been a month since I wrote to you from Switzerland. I still cannot believe that I spent time trekking and hiking in the Swiss alps. 

Ever since I came back, people have asked me just one question — how can we trek in Switzerland on our own?  

That’s what I’m going to answer today. 

In this post, I’m sharing with you a guide on how to trek on your own in Switzerland. These are good treks to do on your own without a guide. 

I’m also sharing some pointers on where to stay and how to travel in order to maintain a respectable budget (as much as Switzerland allows).

Let’s start with some basic understanding of how people trek in Switzerland, this will apply to you too.

Switzerland is not a very big country. So don’t expect to do multi day treks like how we do in India. The entire country can be crisscrossed with a combination of trains and cable cars in a matter of hours.

Most treks in Switzerland are day treks. They range anywhere between 3 hours to 6-7 hours (although what the Swiss mention as 4.5 hours took me around 6 hours!)

Each day has a destination where you’ll either be staying at a mountain hut or a hotel. This is the norm when it comes to trekking Switzerland.

Camping is not a very popular practice. They have mountain huts even in the remotest high altitude regions, where stock is sometimes replenished with helicopter services!

There is no concept of a Trek Leader or guide in Switzerland. They have well-marked routes so you never get lost. You also have a mobile network throughout (with some network providers), which give you easy access to Google maps or Swiss topo apps.

This is the first trek I did after landing in Switzerland. And what an introduction it was to the Swiss Alps! 

Blüemlisalp is a high mountain in the Bernese Alps, rising to 12,011 ft. It is a lesser known massif in the region, since it is overshadowed by its famous neighbours, Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn. 

This particular trek takes you to a mountain hut (hütte in German) at the base of the Blüemlisalp massif. It’s an intimidating view. You take one step out of the hut and you step on the crackling Blüemlisalp glacier.

A view of the Blümlisalp massif from the hut. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

From here, you get a few of the most spectacular views of the Bernese Alps, especially during sunset. In fact, many people climb up here just to experience the sunset! Just below the hut is also a col called Hohtürli Pass, from where several treks begin. This is perhaps the most Himalayan-like trek I did in Switzerland. 

The trek starts from a lovely pine forest. Not too dense, but tall and earthy. Small rivulets meander through the trees, sometimes cascading down small rocks. 

The forest trails just rising out of Griesalp. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

At the end of the forest, the scenery opened up so suddenly that I was caught off guard. Ahead of me were endless meadows set against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains. A huge glacier rolled down on my left. The trail from here onwards climbed steadily uphill. It was a pleasurable climb, but a challenging one! 

Looking back on the trail to Blümlisalphütte. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

Within four hours, I had crossed the treeline, entered the grasslands, crossed the grasslands, hit the moraines and even touched the snowline. That’s how quickly the trek climbs. The mountain hut is in alpine terrain, usually surrounded by snow after September. 

I would highly recommend this trek to a slightly more experienced trekker. You’ll enjoy the challenge and the rewards at the end of it. If you’re a beginner, I have more treks for you. 

The mountain hut as seen from Hohtürli Pass. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

Inside the mountain hut: This was an experience in itself, meeting hikers, skiers and mountaineers from all around Switzerland at the common dining area. They serve you hot, delicious meals and have quite a vast menu. The huts have shared rooms (bunk beds) and shared toilets. The stay was warm and cosy. All mountain huts across Switzerland have similar facilities and cost around 70-80 CHF per night (inclusive of dinner and breakfast). 

Altitude gain: ↑ 4,675 ft (4,642 ft to 9,317 ft)

Difficulty: Difficult, meant for fit and experienced trekkers. A lot of the walk is on moraine and snow.

How to reach Griesalp: Stay overnight at Spiez. From Spiez, take a train to Reichenbach im Kandertal and a bus further to Griesalp. Start early, as soon as you finish breakfast.

One of the things I was looking forward to the most in Switzerland was seeing alpine lakes. I had seen pictures of turquoise blue waters glimmering in the sunlight, many of them reminiscent of the Gadsar lake in Kashmir, but much larger in size.

That’s exactly what I saw at Lake Oeschinensee. Azure waters fed by several creeks around it, pine trees dotting the landscape, majestic cliffs walling the lake. It was an incredible sight, one meant for wallpapers! 

My first view of Lake Oeschinensee from the Blümlisalphütte route. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

There are two ways to get to the lake. I trekked to the lake from Blümlisalphütte. If you trek to Blümlisalphütte, you must definitely trek down this route too. It starts right below the hut, from the Hohtürli Pass. It’s a steep descent to the lake, speeding down glacial moraines, rocky terrain and grasslands. 

What mesmerised me is that this lake was nowhere in sight throughout my descent. I almost thought this lake was a farce, when suddenly it loomed in front of me! I stood transfixed at the view for several minutes, until a few passersby shook me out of reverie. 

The route from the other side, Kandersteg, is incredibly pretty too. It climbs through pine forests alongside the Oeschibach river, which is fed by the lake. Not only do you get to walk by the river, you’ll also be spoiled by the view of Kandersteg, a charming town nestled in a glacial valley.

The town of Kandersteg. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

Once you get to the lake, you can spend 4-5 hours by the lake side. Walking around the lake, it can take nearly 2 hours to see it from all sides, although one side has been cordoned off because of possibilities of rockfall. You can take a dip, take a boat, or toboggan beside the lake. Of course, you have to go in the summer for this. In winter, the lake remains frozen for months, making it an ice skaters’ haven.

On your return, I would recommend the gondola ride to Kandersteg, just for the experience of it. There’s also a route to hike back down, which is different from the route up. I found this blog quite useful for the routes.

Altitude gain: ↑ 1,277 ft (3,900 ft to 5,177 ft)

Difficulty: Easy from Kandersteg route, slightly challenging descent from Blümlisalphütte route

How to reach Kandersteg: There’s a train station at Kandersteg, so it’s easy to reach here from anywhere.

Good blog for information: https://tinyurl.com/exys3yxz

Here is a classic trail in Switzerland, steeped in history and rare sights of the Swiss backcountry. What I loved about this trail is that it showed me a side of Switzerland that you never get to see in postcards. And it is a superbly flexible trail. It stretches across 26 km. You can get on and off at several points with easy railway accessibility. The starting points are the stations at Hohtenn, Ausserberg, Eggerberg, Lalden, Dorf and Brig. 

To me, there were four highlights of this trail: 

(1) Walking in and out of innumerable tunnels 

There are countless such tunnels on this trail. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

(2) Crossing the Bietschtal hanging bridge (scary but incredible!) 

The Bietschtal hanging bridge around a 1000 ft above the river. The railway bridge is still functional. So don’t be surprised if a train whizzes by as you’re crossing the bridge. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

(3) The view of the Rhône river and the settlements below 

A view of the towns below from the Lötschberg-Südrampe trail. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

(4) Having a historic water channel as my companion throughout the trail

The water channel along the Lötschberg-Südrampe has a fascinating history of how it was made! Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

What’s unique about this trail is that it is laid out entirely beside the Lötschberg railway track. This track was built way back in the early 1900s, boring through imposing mountains and over newly constructed bridges that hung 1000 ft above a gushing river. You cannot help but marvel at the architectural genius of the Swiss people over 100 years ago! 

On the other hand, this is one of the warmest trekking trails in Switzerland. It faces the south and witnesses the sun right from dawn to dusk. The trail is dry and barren, with lots of lizards and possibly snakes. There were a few completely deserted sections where with every step I took, I saw about 50 skinks scuttling away. It’s a rare experience in Switzerland, popular with keen trekking enthusiasts only.

Which route to take: I did this trek from Ausserberg to Raron, around 8 km long, across the hanging bridge of Bietschtal. I would recommend this route to you too. This way, you’ll get to experience Ausserberg too, a faraway village in Switzerland, housing just around 650 people. You’ll get to see how Swiss people live, untouched by tourism.

A pasture in the village of Ausserberg. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

Duration: 3-4 hours from Ausserberg to Raron

How to go about it: Stay overnight at Ausserberg, which is accessible by train. Start your journey from there.

Recommended hotel: Hotel Bahnof, Ausserberg (Costs approx. 125 CHF per night, includes only breakfast)

This is another terrific trek in Switzerland, because of the flabbergasting views of the Aletsch Glacier and the suspension bridge over it. This is the longest glacier in the Alps, stretching across 23 km. From your starting point at Belalp, you’re already floored by the view of the snout of the glacier. 

Only when you start trekking do you realise that you’re going closer and closer to the glacier, at one point, you’re standing right above it on a suspension bridge, hanging 80 m above the ground and suspended across a gorge for 125 m. It’s not for the fainthearted. 

From the bridge, it’s a complete ascent to Riederalp, through lovely shady forests of Aletschwald. It’s one of the most unique forest experiences, trekking beside 100 year old Swiss stone pines, yet with a view of the glacier near you. 

I personally didn’t trek this route because I was short on time, but having been to Belalp, seen the glacier and spent the night there, I know how grand this trek is going to be. If and when I go back to Switzerland, I’m definitely going to complete this route. 

Another small trek here: From Blatten to Belalp (ascent through beautiful 800-1000 year old pine forests) or the reverse route. There is the option of a cable way here, but the hike is gorgeous. 

A view of the famous chapel at Belalp. Picture by Swathi Chatrapathy

Difficulty: Moderate-difficult. Requires high fitness levels.

How to reach Belalp: Take a train to Brig. From Brig, take a bus to Blatten. From Blatten, take a cable way to Belalp (or hike up to Belalp)

Other great treks to do (recommended by Swiss trekkers):

1. Trek to Leutschachhütte from Arnisee via Nidersee (Normal route)

A lovely trail starting beside the Arnisee lake and climbing to another alpine lake at Nidersee. From Nidersee, it’s a stiff climb over switchbacks to Leutschachhütte. The views from the hut, especially in summer when Switzerland is in its peak greenery is astounding. 

Click here to find more info about the trek to Leutschachhütte

This is a 6 km loopy trail over a plateau that allows you to experience the best alpine flowers of Switzerland, especially from May to October. It takes hardly 3 hours to cover the distance. Given that it is in the Interlaken region, the panoramic views of Lake Brienz, Lake Thun and the Bernese Alps (Mt Eiger and My Jungfrau) are out of the world.  

You can reach here only by hiking up or by taking a cogwheel train from Wilderswil (which is accessible by train or bus). You can avail a 50% discount on the cogwheel train if you have a Swiss travel pass. 

Almost everyone who goes to Switzerland visits Grindelwald. But what not many people do is hike around the place. Just look up Grindelwald First and you’ll find umpteen trails around the region, like the hike up to Bachalpsee lake, taking just two hours. 

Find more information here: https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-in/experiences/grindelwald-first-1/

9 Important Tips to trek on your own in Switzerland: 

Switzerland’s train and bus connectivity will be your best friend while you’re in Switzerland. The travel pass allows you unlimited access to trains, buses and boats. You can move from one corner of the country to another within 2-3 hours. This gives you tremendous freedom and flexibility to plan your treks. It even accommodates last-minute change in plan at all times. 

For history buffs: This travel pass allows you free access to over 500 museums in Switzerland too. 

| Costing: The Swiss travel pass costs around 281 CHF for 4 days and 418 CHF for 8 days. This price is going to reduce significantly by around 20%-30% from Jan 2022. It is quite pricey if you convert it into INR. So avoid the mental exercise 🙂 

You’ll find more information on their official website here.

2. Make use of the iconic cable ways in Switzerland

One of the most iconic experiences in Switzerland is riding the cable way. Before visiting Switzerland, I thought these were few and far apart. Once I got familiar with the transport system though, I was astonished to see how many cable ways exist! It is used much like a bus or a train in Switzerland. So if you have planned a trek and you’re not feeling up to it, or you’re injured, you can just get into a cable way and come all the way down. 

What was more astonishing was that the sizes and distances of the cable ways vary. While going to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise restaurant, from where we climbed Mt Breithorn, we changed cable ways thrice, from large sized ones to smaller ones, climbing uphill for almost 45 minutes! 

| Costing: The costing of the cable car varies from the distance to the size of the cable car. Gondolas (smaller cars) are cheaper. It could cost anywhere between 7 CHF to 25 CHF for a ride. If you have a Swiss travel pass, the cost is 50% less.

One of the most convenient aspects of trekking in Switzerland is that you have mobile connectivity on most trails. For trekking purposes, I would recommend a Swisscom SIM card. It had the best connectivity on the remotest trails. You can easily use Google maps or any other apps on its network. 

| Costing: It costs 20 CHF for a pre-paid SIM card, has unlimited data for a month, upto 10 GB. The SIM card has data only in Switzerland though, not other European countries. 

If I had a penny for every time I opened this app in Switzerland, I’d be a millionaire. The most useful app to travel around in Switzerland. It shows you train, bus and cable way timings, updated and accurate to the second. It never fails. 

| Costing: It’s a free app and can be downloaded on Android and iPhones too. 

Switzerland Mobility is a lot like the Indiahikes website for those who want to trek on their own. It has all the information you need to do a trek on your own. So you can just look for the route you want to trek on and find it on the app, along with the routemap, section by section break-ups and trail information. 

| Costing: It’s a free app and easy to use. 

6. Choose to stay in mountain huts or hostels

Hostels and mountain huts cost less than half the price of regular hotels in Switzerland. 

Hostels are available in most of the touristy areas where hotels are doubly expensive (like Zermatt, Interlaken, Lucerne, Zurich and Grindelwald). These may not be your most convenient places if you’re trekking in remote areas. But they’re very pocket-friendly if you’re travelling around the touristy regions. 

Useful websites to book hostels: Youthhostel.ch, hostelworld.com

In touristy places like Zermatt, it’s best to stay at hostels. Picture shot at Zermatt by Swathi Chatrapathy

Mountain huts, on the other hand, are your most convenient places to stay if you’re trekking. These are maintained by SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), have excellent facilities and give you a feeling of community, where you meet fellow trekkers and hikers. (Funnily, they have almost never seen Indians trekking in Switzerland. They were very surprised to learn I was from India! Let’s hope to change that!)

How and where to book: Much like hotels, you have to book these much in advance, especially in peak trekking season. They have limited slots (around 150) and usually get booked out soon. 

SAC website to book stay: https://www.sac-cas.ch/en/huts-and-tours/sac-route-portal/?type=hut

7. Get in touch with trek experts in Switzerland

Euro Trek is a company that organises treks in Switzerland and other parts of Europe. They made my trek itinerary for me, and helped organise my stay and meals. They don’t have too many guided tours, but can help you with the logistics. They are very flexible with itineraries and plan it according to your needs. 

4 excellent multi-day treks Euro Trek organises in Switzerland: 

Via Alpina: Their best-selling tour in Switzerland. The route crosses the whole country. In the east the mountain regions are more wild and sparsely populated – the key parts are in the Bernese Oberland where you visit places like Grindelwald or Wengen. (Read more)

Via Albula: This tour crosses the alps and ends in Italy. The trail follows the rails of the Rhaetian Railway and shows a very authentic part of Switzerland. St. Moritz is the most popular place along the trail and the glaciers of Bernina are another highlight. (Read more)

Lake Lucerne: This walk takes you around Lake Lucerne. The places where trekkers stay are small and authentic and offer very nice views on the lake and the adjacent alpine peaks. (Read more)

Valais: Two of the trekking routes I mentioned earlier are a part of this trek in the Aletsch region. It’s challenging, but a unique trek in Switzerland. (Read more) 

| Costing: They charge around 850 CHF for an 8 day tour like Via Alpina, inclusive of your food, accommodation, transfer of luggage and planning your itinerary. 

8. Familiarize yourself with trail markings: 

Nobody in Switzerland really treks with guides. All trails are well-marked. Familiarize yourself with the signs, so that you don’t get lost. Also, for your safety, download the EchoSOS app for emergency purposes.  

9. Get fit before you trek in Switzerland

This is the last tip I’m going to leave you with. The Swiss Alps are incredibly beautiful, but you’ll be able to enjoy it only if you’re fit. The Swiss locals have made trekking and hiking a part of their lives. It is second nature to them. Where they mark a trail as 4 hours, you can consider it 6 hours if you’re moderately fit. 

So get fit. Carry two trekking poles. Plan your trip well. 

Trekking in Switzerland requires good fitness levels. Don’t underestimate any trail. Picture from mountaineering ascent to Mt Breithorn shot by Nicole Schafer

That brings me to the end of this post. I hope it gives you enough information to trek on your own in Switzerland. It’s hard to cram more information into one post. So if you are curious about anything in particular — food, stay, budget — just drop in a comment. I’ll get back to you. I’m sure it will help other trekkers as well. 

I want to thank Günther Lämmerer from Euro Trek and Miiriam, a fellow trekker whom I met at Blümlisalphütte, for helping me gather this information. I also want to thank Switzerland Tourism for inviting Indiahikes to write about trekking in Switzerland. I truly hope to see more Indian trekkers in Switzerland. 

A guide on how to trek in Switzerland on your own, including few of the best trekking trails and tips of stay, travel and accommodation.

How to Trek in Switzerland On Your Own (Includes Best Treks + 9 Important Tips)

When Swathi, the Head of the Content Team at Indiahikes, first threw the idea of writing about the culture of Kinnaur, I was rather nonplussed.

I asked her, “But the only trek we have in Kinnaur is the Pin Bhaba Pass and that too, travels through wilderness. There’s not much culture to be seen on this trek except the drive from Shimla to Kafnu?”

“That’s exactly the point!” she said. “Not many of our trekkers know about the rich tradition that Kinnaur has to offer. It’s just Kinnauri apples that are famous. But Kinnaur is a hidden gem.”

So I embarked on discovering this cultural treasure that Kinnaur had to offer. 

The Nako Village of Kinnaur. Picture by Sahil Mehta.

If you’re trekking anywhere close by, you should definitely stay in Kinnaur for 1-2 days to experience the rare culture of the region.

This valley of the gods, famously known in the Puranas as ‘Kinnar Khand’ is 160 km from Shimla. Sharing its border with Tibet on the east and the Garhwal Himalayas on the south, Kinnaur is filled with apple orchards, rich green forests of deodar, gurgling springs, snow capped ranges and deep ravines of the River Sutlej. Kinnaur is truly a beauty to behold.

But, what will completely enthrall you is its exotic ancient culture. 

The beautiful ancient gate is seen on a road in Kinnaur Valley. Picture from Images Bazaar.

A fusion of Hinduism and Buddhism exists almost in totality. Every Kinnauri village has a Hindu temple and a Buddhist Gompa and all worship both. The people of Kinnaur have been able to preserve this unique blend of Indo-Tibetan tradition. 

It is a cultural intermingling of Dolis and Monasteries, of indigenous Pahadi gods alongside their Buddhist counterparts, of Tibetan architecture alongside carvings of Indian deities. .

A Hindu Temple spotted in Kinnaur Valley. Picture from Images Bazaar.

A Buddhist Temple spotted in Kinnaur Valley. Picture from Images Bazaar.

Treks like The Pin Bhaba Pass, Rupin Pass, Charang Ghati and the Kinner Kailash Shivlingam will, in some way, give you grand views of this lush valley of Kinnaur. 

When it comes to religious beliefs, Kinnaur is a land suffused with an extraordinary unusual heritage of mythical stories, superstitions and strange customs. 

Kinnauri architecture has strong influences from Hinduism and Tibetan Buddhism. Its long-standing heritage of wood carving and ornamentation has fostered an architectural tradition unique to the region. The temples and monasteries in the region best exemplify this.

The buildings here are made of Deodar wood and stone, with huge pagoda roofs similar to a Buddhist monastery. Go closer and notice the ornamental motifs that are intricately carved on them. You will find Hindu deities as well as Buddhist ones together. The trident of shiv is a popular motif on Kinnauri homes and temples alike.

Notice the wooden house & temple structure having trident of Shiv. This is a common sight in the villages there. Picture from Images Bazaar.

These traditional houses follow the Kath Kuni style, where strong walls are built interlocking wood and stone. The panels above these houses have ornamental carvings of floral motifs and designs. The stone images date back to the Kushan era. 

Besides the structure and architecture of the houses, what will surely pique your interest is the furniture inside these houses. 

Inside every  Kinnauri home you will notice what are called Khayarcha. These are goat hair mats used for sitting. 

In winters, villagers put the furry skin of a sheep, goat or any wild animal over it to keep warm. This is called Pakpa. Sit on a Pakpa and look over from the tiny windows — you will get to see sweeping views of the village, the green terraced fields, flocks of sheep and perhaps a snoozing cow or two.

The Khul irrigation system is particular to this region of Kinnaur. You will notice this type of system as you cross through the various terraced fields. This system comprises a series of ditches that help preserve as well as transport water from the natural springs and rivers onto the fields. 

You will pass through fragrant orchards of apricots, apples, peaches and plums that are irrigated through the Khul system. Take a small break next to these gurgling man-made streams and pluck a Kinnauri apple for yourself. Munch on its delightful juiciness and surely, apples will never taste the same to you again.

An Apple Farm in the Kinnaur Valley. Picture from Images Bazaar.

The Kinnauris belong to an assimilation of ancient tribes. The people have their own distinct identity, wear distinctive green caps with ornately woven shawls and speak a Tibeto Burman dialect, Kinnauri, that makes them distinct from the rest of the Pahadi tribes.

Women in their traditional Kinnauri attire. Picture by Mathini Travel.

Historically, Kinnaur, like Spiti, belonged to the ancient Zhang Zhung kingdom. Bon, an ancient tribal religion, was practiced in this kingdom. 

With the arrival of Buddhism from Tibet, this tribal religion synchronised itself accommodating both Hindu and Buddhist practices to create an assimilated tradition. 

Further integration and cultural  assimilation took place in the 7th century A.D. when the Kinnauris were pushed deeper into the mountains by the Kashmiri Khash cultural group (also known as Khas and Khasia) who they ultimately blended with. This integration produced a beautiful blend of people. 

The women of Kinnaur and their Ornate jewellery 

The Kinnauri ladies wearing their traditional gold and  silver jewellery are unparalleled in their grandeur and beauty.

To discuss the dress and the ornaments of the Kinnauri women is nothing short of describing a fairy tale. If you are lucky, you can witness a traditional Kinnauri wedding in which the bride is adorned from head to toe with gold and silver jewellery. There are ornaments for the head, for the forehead, the ears, the nose, the neck, the wrists, the fingers, the ankles and the toes, amulets and brooches and the ornately woven colourful shawls that add a touch of mysticism to their already unparalleled  beauty.

A Kinnauri Wedding. Picture by Sahil Nanda.

Weaving has been practiced in Himachal Pradesh for at least 5,000 years. The art of weaving decorative motifs on wool garments came to Kinnaur from Tashkent, in Uzbekistan, via China and Tibet through the erstwhile Hindustan-Tibet Road also known as “The Wool Road.” 

You will come across shawls and garments with Chinese and Uzbeki influences such as the motif of the diwar-e-chine (great wall of China), which is still a traditional motif for weaving .

These weaves are generally produced in household looms. You will be amazed to find out that each Kinnauri household has a personal heir loom for weaving traditional garments.

If you’re lucky enough to be staying with a Kinnauri household, you will be told many stories, especially after dinner. Stories of bright and shiny days, of an abundant harvest, of love and hope. While the stories might be from the past, they  will be familiar as it happened  right here, in this village, by that stream, on that mountain slope.

Each mountain and each hilltop is inhabited by an awe inspiring local deity or spirit. It is said in Kinnaur that the Kalis or hill fairies protect the fauna of the land. Be careful when you’re walking through the pristine green forests, the spirits of the Kalis are believed to reside in the Deodar trees. Try not to disturb the peace of wild things therein as the locals deeply revere this sacred tree.

Kinnaur has some mesmerising pristine green forests. Picture from Flickr.

The locals religiously worship the Matingoes — the underground fairies and Ban Shiras — the spirits of the forest. You will find that the Kinnauris are deeply religious and superstitious. You may very often come across a festival in  the villages that is being held to appease one or few of the local gods or spirits. It will definitely seem to you  that the gods of Kinnaur are temperamental and require constant cajoling.

Ask your local guide of the ghost story of Chon or Chan and be prepared for a sleepless night in the tent!

The stories will mesmerize you and take you into a magical world where man and beast live side by side with spirits and demons. Listening to an actual person narrating a story, not a screen or an audiotape, will definitely give you goosebumps. 

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