TREK DIFFICULTY

Moderate: Level 3

TREK DURATION

7 days

HIGHEST ALTITUDE

11,600 ft

TREK STARTS FROM

Kotgaon, Uttarakhand

The Best Mix of Ancient Culture and Mountain Beauty on a Trek

Har Ki Dun is a trek that needs no introduction. Trekkers have always trod upon these trails to witness the beautiful Swargarohini massif from Har Ki Dun. 

Yet we wanted to veer slightly off the beaten path. We wanted to show trekkers a side of the Har-Ki-Dun trek they rarely see. So we chose a route different from the regular trail, which includes terrific scenic beauty on the new route while retaining the ancient charm of the old route, at the heart of which still lies a journey towards the beautiful Swargarohini peaks. 

Allow us to take you through the new route, where some sections are among the best-kept secrets of this region.  

Take, for example, the enchanting woods of Boslow. The new route through Boslo winds through dense conifers and oaks in the shadow of the mountains before emerging into daylight. Snow patches glide into the forest from high above, sometimes cutting through the forest floor (though you must be early in the season to see this). It is a sight to behold.

Another hidden area is just after the Boslow Forest; we cross the Ruinsara Gad and climb to the Devsu Thatch. Little is written about Devsu Thatch in the trekking world, yet it is among the most beautiful trek scenes. We’d go as far as to say that if you trek to Har Ki Dun but miss Devsu Thatch, the trek is incomplete. 

Devsu Thatch is a large clearing high above the Thamsa River. It is so large that it is technically a meadow in the middle of the forest. Beautifully landscaped grassy mounds, like islands within dense forests, create a mesmerising multi-tiered effect. You can walk barefoot, feeling the soft, moist grass under your feet as you explore Devsu Thatch. It is so beautifully landscaped that we had to include a day’s camping here just to take it all in.

As you trek on this new route, you still weave in and out of the old Har Ki Dun route, trekking through ancient villages. 

These villages never fail to charm trekkers. The houses, all wooden, have unique designs. The temples' culture, deities, and rituals are from a civilisation we do not know. The temples are the heart of the villages, the focal point around which daily life revolves. Villagers wear traditional attire and headgear. It’s as if time has stood still. 

Peering into their homes, we see a lifestyle worth learning from. A sense of harmony exudes from their lives, where humans, animals, and the natural world coexist in beautiful harmony. 

The fact that we witness this firsthand is a big reason to do the trek. But because this is among the biggest takeaways for trekkers, we have included two days of village stays—at Gangad and Datmir. In between, we also pass through the last village, Osla, where traditions are the richest. 

We could go on talking about the Har Ki Dun trek -- the delight of constantly trekking beside the Thamsa river, the allure of the Swargarohini peaks in the distance, and the amphitheatre-like views of the valley. But we could write several scrolls about this and not be done. It's best experienced firsthand. 

Har Ki Dun is a trek that needs no introduction. Trekkers have always trod upon these trails to witness the beautiful Swargarohini massif from Har Ki Dun.  Yet we wanted to veer slightly off the beaten path. We wanted to show trekkers a side of the Har-Ki-Dun trek they rarely see. So we chose a route different from the regular trail, which includes terrific scenic beauty on the new route while retaining the ancient charm of the old route, at the heart of which still lies a journey towards the beautiful Swargarohini peaks. 

Har Ki Dun Videos

Watch these videos to prepare for your Har Ki Dun trek.

Quick Itinerary

A trek map of the Har Ki Dun trek

Day 1

Drive from Dehradun to Kotgaon

Drive Distance: 196 km | Drive Duration: 9-10 hours | Pick up for Indiahikes trekkers: Place - Grand Legacy Hotel, near Laal Pul, Dehradun (6.30am) or Library Chowk, Mussourie (7.30am) | Indiahikes basecamp Location: Kotgaon

Transport will be organised from Hotel Grand Legacy, near Laal Pull, Dehradun at 6.30 AM. Cost of the cab – Rs 6,500 per vehicle for an SUV (shared among 5-6 trekkers) and Rs 10,000 for Tempo Traveller (shared among 11-12 trekkers).

Day 2

Drive from Kotgaon to Taluka. Trek from Taluka to Gangaad

Drive Duration: 1.5 to 2 hours | Trek Distance: 8.50 km | Trek Duration: 5-6 hours | Altitude Gain: 6,916 ft to 7,667 ft

Day 3

Trek from Gangaad to Kalkatiyadhar via Osla

Trek Distance: 8 km | Trek Duration: 6 hours | Altitude Gain: 7,667 ft to 10,032 ft

Day 4

Trek from Kalkatiyadhar to Boslo via Har Ki Dun

Trek Distance: 9 km | Trek Duration: 5-6 hours | Altitude Gain and Loss: 10,032 ft to 10,760 ft via 11,600 ft

Day 5

Trek from Boslo to Devsu Thatch

Trek Distance: 5.5 km | Trek Duration: 5 hours | Altitude Gain: 10,760 ft to 9,930 ft

Day 6

Trek from Devsu Thatch to Dhatmer

Trek Distance: 9.5 km | Trek Duration: 6-7 hours | Altitude Gain and Loss: 9,930 ft to 7,825 ft

Day 7

Drive from Dhatmer to Kotgaon and then to Dehradun

Drive Distance: 196 km | Drive Duration: 9-10 hours | Altitude Loss: 7,825 ft to 6,455 ft

This transport cost has to be borne by trekkers and paid directly to the driver. Cost of the cab – Rs.6,500 per vehicle for an SUV, shared among 5-6 trekkers, or Rs.10,000 per vehicle for a Tempo Traveler, shared among 11-12 trekkers.

Please note: The distance between campsites may vary by 100 meters depending the weather conditions and the route you take. The altitude may also vary by 100 feet for similar reasons.

IMPORTANT POINTS

Documents required: It is mandatory for trekkers to carry a copy of their photo id and medical certificate for entry at forest check posts on the trek. The medical certificate along with the disclaimer form will be part of the Safety Check-in done by the trek leader when you arrive at the base camp.

Stay facility: At the base camp, your stay will be at our Campus which has rooms. Do not bring any packaged food, tags from your new clothes or any waste with you. We follow a Dustbin Free Zone and No Wet Wipes Policy at our base camps in line with our spirit of Green Trails. On the trek, at Gangaad and Dhatmer, you will stay in homestays. On other campsites, you will be staying 2 in a tent.

Cloakroom facility for excess luggage: We have a Cloak Room facility at the base camp for excess luggage. Every trekker is permitted to leave behind one piece of luggage at no charge. Anything beyond one piece of luggage is chargeable at Rs 500 per luggage. (The luggage could be a backpack / suitcase / duffel bag or anything similar.). Do not leave behind any valuables in the cloakroom.

Advisory Note: The road from Taluka to Kotgaon often gets blocked in case of bad weather. To be on the safer side, we highly recommend keeping a buffer day in your travel plan. To accommodate your buffer day, book flexible flight tickets, which are available with most airlines.

A trek map of the Har Ki Dun trek

PRO-TIPS

Onward Travel

If you're planning your travel, choose to travel by bus instead of train. They're usually on time compared to trains. If you're traveling by train, choose the Jan Shatabdi Express and reach Dehradun a day before Day 1 of the trek.

Return Travel

While returning, you will reach Dehradun between 6.00 PM and 7.00 PM. Plan your travel any time after 9.00 PM from Dehradun. The Nanda Devi Express will suit your schedule well.

Advisory Note

The road from Taluka to Kotgaon often gets blocked in case of bad weather. To be on the safer side, we highly recommend keeping a buffer day in your travel plan. To accommodate your buffer day, book flexible flight tickets, which are available with most airlines.

Day 1

Drive from Dehradun to Kotgaon

Drive Distance: 196 km | Drive Duration: 9-10 hours | Pick up for Indiahikes trekkers: Place - Grand Legacy Hotel, near Laal Pul, Dehradun (6.30am) or Library Chowk, Mussourie (7.30am) | Indiahikes basecamp Location: Kotgaon

Transport will be organised from Hotel Grand Legacy, near Laal Pull, Dehradun at 6.30 AM. Cost of the cab – Rs 6,500 per vehicle for an SUV (shared among 5-6 trekkers) and Rs 10,000 for Tempo Traveller (shared among 11-12 trekkers).

Day 2

Drive from Kotgaon to Taluka. Trek from Taluka to Gangaad

Drive Duration: 1.5 to 2 hours | Trek Distance: 8.50 km | Trek Duration: 5-6 hours | Altitude Gain: 6,916 ft to 7,667 ft

Day 3

Trek from Gangaad to Kalkatiyadhar via Osla

Trek Distance: 8 km | Trek Duration: 6 hours | Altitude Gain: 7,667 ft to 10,032 ft

Day 4

Trek from Kalkatiyadhar to Boslo via Har Ki Dun

Trek Distance: 9 km | Trek Duration: 5-6 hours | Altitude Gain and Loss: 10,032 ft to 10,760 ft via 11,600 ft

Day 5

Trek from Boslo to Devsu Thatch

Trek Distance: 5.5 km | Trek Duration: 5 hours | Altitude Gain: 10,760 ft to 9,930 ft

Day 6

Trek from Devsu Thatch to Dhatmer

Trek Distance: 9.5 km | Trek Duration: 6-7 hours | Altitude Gain and Loss: 9,930 ft to 7,825 ft

Day 7

Drive from Dhatmer to Kotgaon and then to Dehradun

Drive Distance: 196 km | Drive Duration: 9-10 hours | Altitude Loss: 7,825 ft to 6,455 ft

This transport cost has to be borne by trekkers and paid directly to the driver. Cost of the cab – Rs.6,500 per vehicle for an SUV, shared among 5-6 trekkers, or Rs.10,000 per vehicle for a Tempo Traveler, shared among 11-12 trekkers.

Please note: The distance between campsites may vary by 100 meters depending the weather conditions and the route you take. The altitude may also vary by 100 feet for similar reasons.

IMPORTANT POINTS

➤Documents required: It is mandatory for trekkers to carry a copy of their photo id and medical certificate for entry at forest check posts on the trek. The medical certificate along with the disclaimer form will be part of the Safety Check-in done by the trek leader when you arrive at the base camp.

➤Stay facility: At the base camp, your stay will be at our Campus which has rooms. Do not bring any packaged food, tags from your new clothes or any waste with you. We follow a Dustbin Free Zone and No Wet Wipes Policy at our base camps in line with our spirit of Green Trails. On the trek, at Gangaad and Dhatmer, you will stay in homestays. On other campsites, you will be staying 2 in a tent.

➤Cloakroom facility for excess luggage: We have a Cloak Room facility at the base camp for excess luggage. Every trekker is permitted to leave behind one piece of luggage at no charge. Anything beyond one piece of luggage is chargeable at Rs 500 per luggage. (The luggage could be a backpack / suitcase / duffel bag or anything similar.). Do not leave behind any valuables in the cloakroom.

➤Advisory Note: The road from Taluka to Kotgaon often gets blocked in case of bad weather. To be on the safer side, we highly recommend keeping a buffer day in your travel plan. To accommodate your buffer day, book flexible flight tickets, which are available with most airlines.

PRO-TIPS

Onward Travel

If you're planning your travel, choose to travel by bus instead of train. They're usually on time compared to trains. If you're traveling by train, choose the Jan Shatabdi Express and reach Dehradun a day before Day 1 of the trek.

Return Travel

While returning, you will reach Dehradun between 6.00 PM and 7.00 PM. Plan your travel any time after 9.00 PM from Dehradun. The Nanda Devi Express will suit your schedule well.

Advisory Note

The road from Taluka to Kotgaon often gets blocked in case of bad weather. To be on the safer side, we highly recommend keeping a buffer day in your travel plan. To accommodate your buffer day, book flexible flight tickets, which are available with most airlines.

Photo Gallery

Our basecamp is located at Kotgaon, in a picturesque setting amidst the mustard fields. Photo by Jothiranjan

The majestic forest section on the first day of Har ki Dun trek. Photo by Dhaval Jajal

The mystical Gangaad village - first campsite on the Har ki Dun trek. Photo by Jothiranjan.

Why Har ki Dun is one of the best culture treks

Har ki Dun is a trail where time has stood still. The valley is an alluring treasure trove of heritage and history.

This photo story gives you a glimpse of what makes it one of the best cultural treks.

The entrance of the Kotgaon village is marked by a beautiful Devta temple with lovely wooden architecture. Picture by Jothiranjan

The Gangad village spread out on the mountainside with houses almost hanging in the air. Picture by Naveen Hiremath

You will learn that the people here deeply revere the Mahabharata. But what will take you completely by surprise is that they not only worship the Pandavas, but they also pray to the Kauravas! Photo by Jothiranjan

Expert Speak

Sandhya UC, Co-Founder, COO

Sandhya UC, Co-Founder, COO

Sandhya is a founding partner at Indiahikes. Over the past ten years, she has explored and put on the map a few of the greatest Himalayan treks in India, including Kashmir Great Lakes and Kedarkantha. She is a TedX Speaker and has been awarded the "Women of Worth" Award by Outlook Business in 2017. She believes in sustainable living just as she believes in sustainable trekking.

Here’s Sandhya talking about one of the top treks in our country.

What I Like About the Har Ki Dun Trek

Sandhya UC, Co-Founder, COO

Sandhya is a founding partner at Indiahikes. Over the past ten years, she has explored and put on the map a few of the greatest Himalayan treks in India, including Kashmir Great Lakes and Kedarkantha. She is a TedX Speaker and has been awarded the "Women of Worth" Award by Outlook Business in 2017. She believes in sustainable living just as she believes in sustainable trekking. Here’s Sandhya talking about one of the top treks in our country.

1. The trek from Taluka to Gangad

This is one of the most underrated sections of the trek. In less than five minutes of starting your trek, you find yourself on an undulating trail right beside the Thamsa river. You are constantly under a canopy of fresh green.

Quaint old wooden bridges across the river appear out of nowhere giving you great picture opportunities. You cover miles on this trail without breaking a sweat.

You’ll notice that the coniferous forest gets denser as you go further. The narrow trail snakes through this dense dark forest for a good hour before opening up to the traces of civilization — the ancient village of Gangad.

I am not used to such leafy starts on treks. It was almost like a walk in a picture-perfect pine tree park. I cherished every minute of it.

A pleasing forest walk through tall pine trees. Picture by Jothiranjan

2. The meadows of Kalkatiyadhar

You never hear trekkers talk about any campsite on the Har Ki Dun trek. Like everyone else, I assumed Kalkatiyadhar to either be a small settlement or just beside it.

Quite contrary to my expectations, Kalkatiyadhar turned out to be a vast green meadow. What blew me away was the expanse of the valley. We were in the middle of multi-level cricket-field-sized meadows, set at a vantage height.

To my distant left, the trail climbed towards Swargarohini peaks, which were just peeking on the horizon. To my far right were dense jungles with mountains rising behind them. This was the trail to Ruinsara.

To my right across the river was a meadow set amidst a boundary of pine trees. Behind me, I could trace the trail down to Seema and even see the Kedarkantha summit miles away behind Kotgaon.

Such open settings above 10,000 ft in the mountains with trees, meadows, rivers, and big mountains together in a single frame are not settings you experience in every trek.

Campsite on the meadows of Kalkatiyadhar. Picture by Sandhya UC

3. The stories of the ancient villages

A lot has been said everywhere about the ancient villages of Har Ki Dun. You spot these villages from a distance, spread out on the mountainside, with houses almost hanging in the air. I could not wait to climb up to them and see what the interiors looked like.

Spending a night in the village home takes you back hundreds of years. The stories of the village elders and the smiles of the youngsters are something that you want to capture and take back with you.

The villages complete the famed Har Ki Dun experience. On our trek, you get to stay in at least two different villages – Gangad and Osla.

The ancient village of Gangaad in the Har Ki Dun valley. Picture by Jothiranjan

4. Devsu Thatch: The best kept secret of the trek

Devsu Thatch turned out to be the best-kept secret of the entire Har Ki Dun trail. You hardly see much of this meadow from anywhere else but when inside it. The secret is indeed well wrapped around by pine trees!

I loved the meadows because they flow down from top to bottom for 600 meters and stretch for almost 2 km in length. Flowering bushes border the meadows throughout while tiny colourful flowers grow from the ground almost everywhere in spring.

Being higher than its counterpart Kalkatiyadhar on the other side of the valley, you get the best views of the triangular valley here.

I remember running from one end of the meadow to another in the evening to capture my sunset shots as every corner seemed to offer a different view.

The flawless grasslands of Devsu Thatch is guaranteed to surprise you on the trek. Picture by the Sandhya UC

5. The entire valley

Har Ki Dun valley is the one this trek celebrates. Very rightfully, the whole valley is very beautiful.

I loved the expanse of the Har Ki Dun valley. The valley has everything going for it. Big snow-clad mountains tower right in front of you. A big river flows right in the middle. Lovely green meadows stretched far and wide. I could sit there and just take in this scene the whole day.

The stunning landscapes of Har ki Dun. Picture by Subhrajyoti Das

Know Your Trek

We have always wanted trekkers to be well-informed before they go on a Himalayan trek. Knowledge is the difference between a safe trek and a dangerous one. It’s also the difference between a wholesome experience and a superficial experience.

Use this section to learn about the Har Ki Dun trek. It has in-depth information about each day of the trek, what to expect, and how you need to prepare for it. Many years of expertise have gone into this content. Trekkers find that extremely useful.

The day-wise section of Har Ki Dun has been documented in detail by our trekker Shakti Nirmal.

Day 1 (Pick-up Day): Drive from Dehradun to Kotgaon

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Duration: 9-10 hours | Drive Distance: 196 km

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Drive Distance: 196 km

The Drive

The first half of the journey gradually ascends through Dehradun (and later Mussoorie) with boarding schools and farms on either side of the road. Later, the scenery is replaced by chandelier-like pines covering large expanses of sloping mountains.

Far off you may spot snow-capped peaks.

The breeze is cool. You'll pass pushcarts selling plums, apricots, peaches, rhododendron juice, local tea, etc.

Green Trails Tip: Make sure you get your own mug to avoid using a plastic or paper cup. This will prevent you from generating waste.

You'll pass several villages, namely, Naugaon, Mori, and Purola. The Naitwar village marks the beginning of the Govind Pashu Vihar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary. You'll spot the Har ki Dun along with several other peaks of the Garhwal Himalayas.

The Supin and Rupin rivers merge to form river Tons. The greenish waters of River Tons accompany you for a while. Spot Rupin at Naitwar and later, Supin at Sankri.

The Basecamp

Kotgaon is a small but pretty village with 250 houses. A few dhabas and shops contribute to the economy of this quaint village.

The village offers a beautiful view of the sun setting behind the greater Himalayas. The peaks of Swargarohini shimmer in the evening sun, standing tall over the ridges beyond Kotgaon.

On arriving at Kotgaon—your destination for the day—a row of vibrant houses with little cafes and shops emerge in view. The structures in the village are made of wood to keep warm since temperature drops can be harsh.

The Indiahikes homestay is three-storied with decks on the floors above. It overlooks the tiny, colourful houses of the village.

Notice how the birds begin singing at 5 am. You hear them throughout the day, especially in the mornings and evenings.

The village also has a long-held tradition of beating the drums at night, indicating bedtime, and in the morning, prompting everyone to wake up.

The Drive

The first half of the journey gradually ascends through Dehradun (and later Mussoorie) with boarding schools and farms on either side of the road. Later, the scenery is replaced by chandelier-like pines covering large expanses of sloping mountains.

Far off you may spot snow-capped peaks.

The breeze is cool. You'll pass pushcarts selling plums, apricots, peaches, rhododendron juice, local tea, etc.

Green Trails Tip: Make sure you get your own mug to avoid using a plastic or paper cup. This will prevent you from generating waste.

You'll pass several villages, namely, Naugaon, Mori, and Purola. The Naitwar village marks the beginning of the Govind Pashu Vihar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary. You'll spot the Har ki Dun along with several other peaks of the Garhwal Himalayas.

The Supin and Rupin rivers merge to form river Tons. The greenish waters of River Tons accompany you for a while. Spot Rupin at Naitwar and later, Supin at Sankri.

The Basecamp

Kotgaon is a small but pretty village with 250 houses. A few dhabas and shops contribute to the economy of this quaint village.

The village offers a beautiful view of the sun setting behind the greater Himalayas. The peaks of Swargarohini shimmer in the evening sun, standing tall over the ridges beyond Kotgaon.

On arriving at Kotgaon—your destination for the day—a row of vibrant houses with little cafes and shops emerge in view. The structures in the village are made of wood to keep warm since temperature drops can be harsh.

The Indiahikes homestay is three-storied with decks on the floors above. It overlooks the tiny, colourful houses of the village.

Notice how the birds begin singing at 5 am. You hear them throughout the day, especially in the mornings and evenings.

The village also has a long-held tradition of beating the drums at night, indicating bedtime, and in the morning, prompting everyone to wake up.

Day 2: Drive from Kotgaon to Taluka. Trek from Taluka to Gangaad

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Drive Duration: 1.5 to 2 hours

Trek Duration: 5-6 hours | Trek Distance: 8.50 km

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Altitude Gain: 751 ft (6,916 ft to 7,667 ft)

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Difficulty: Flat gradient for first 3 km. After Bhida ka Thatch is a gradual ascent and Descent all through the trail.

You have a long day today. Start with a good breakfast.

The drive

Your journey begins with a drive to Taluka. It is a small village that is 12 km away from the Kotgaon basecamp.

If you’re trekking on your own, you can either hire a jeep (locally) for this, subject to the condition of the road, or walk till Taluka. This is a landslide-prone route and is often closed during the monsoons. The trail to Taluka is almost level, going through 10-11 mountain bends.

Notice the houses you pass by. They are built using a technique called Kath-Khuni architecture that uses a combination of wood, stone, and slate.

Such construction protects against seismic forces and harsh climactic conditions prevalent in the region. Parallel beams of wood with stones firmly placed and stuck together with mud make up the foundation of these homes, providing a solid structure to prevent the deleterious impacts that earthquakes in the region may have.

On the way, there are three big streams, almost submerging sections of the road in water. The hike is scenic, going past a series of wild roses and irises and bamboo, chestnut and cedar (deodar) trees. Just 2 km before Taluka, there is a campsite beside a stream.

You can camp here if there isn’t enough time to go to Puani Garaat i.e if you’re hiking from Kotgaon. There is also a GMVN Guesthouse at Taluka for accommodation. The dhaba food is very basic.

Trekkers with Indiahikes drive from Kotgaon to Taluka (12 km, 1 hour). Taluka is a small village with concrete houses. This is quite a contrast to the architecture in neighbouring villages like Kotgaon, Osla and Gangad, which are close to 300 years old. We start the trek towards Bhida Ka Thach from Taluka.

The trek

Descend to the riverbank of Thumsa on the left. It is a tributary of Yamuna which flows from the upper ranges of Bandarpunch. The river remains on your right. This shepherd’s trail goes along the river on a level walk. During the day, the sands glimmer along the riverbank. Notice numerous gleaming rocks of mica covering the terrain. Around 10 minutes into the hike, spot the first cemented bridge over a small stream.

Within 15 minutes of level walk you reach another bridge, this time, a wooden one. Fill your bottles here.

From here, walk uphill for 15 minutes till you see a small clearing next to the river. You can set up an emergency camp here if need be.

Another 10-15 minutes later, you’ll come across a spot where you can climb down to a tributary of River Thamsa. Look for a wooden bridge to cross this river, which is just below Datmir village. On the other side is a camping ground. From here, facing the inner part of the valley, locate two trails, one moving upwards and another going straight ahead. Take the second route straight ahead.

The trail from here is in bad condition as it is prone to landslides. After 10-15 minutes of level walk, you come across a land cleared by shepherds to set up temporary night shelters.

From here, the trail climbs up, alternating between upward and level walks. 10 minutes into the hike, look out for your first landslide-prone section. You may have to come down the river and cross the section that has caved in due to landslides. 20 minutes on this trail leads you to a wooden bridge to cross over River Thamsa.

Ignore the bridge and proceed ahead.

After 5 minutes, the trail turns steep and crisscrosses upwards. This section will take about 15-20 minutes to cover. During monsoon, expect this trail to be completely covered in mud. The trail will now relax with a series of level walks. Soon you’ll approach a stream coming down the hill on your right, with a wooden bridge over it.

For trekkers trekking by themselves, they can camp at the further campsite of Puani Garaat. The trail picks up a little altitude as you enter the forest again. After 30-40 minutes, look for an old village across the river on your left. This is Gangaad. You stay here for the night.

Gangaad is an ancient hamlet with a primary school and a temple of Someshwar Maharaj. The temple only remains open in a certain season since the residents believe that the Gods move from one temple to another through different seasons. One of the practices they perform has to do with the sacrificial goat. Every time an individual is leaving the village in pursuit of better prospects and opportunities or when a special occasion arises, a goat is sacrificed and cooked, which is then shared among all the villagers.

The mountain on the side of the village is barren and ridged as opposed to the ones across the valley, rife with spruce pines and vegetation. This is owing to variations in soil type from region to region.

Most houses in villages like Gangaad and Oslo are two or three-storied. Cattle are reared in the lower levels. Cows at the bottom floor, sheep and goats in the middle, and humans live at the top.

This mechanism keeps the homes warm during the winter months since the heat trapped below helps in regulating the temperature above.

Roofs of these houses aren’t made from aluminium sheets. They are made of tile-shaped stone sheets called patalli. These are intricately put together to make angled roofs. The weight of the stone protects from the wind and other harsh weather conditions.

You have a long day today. Start with a good breakfast.

The drive

Your journey begins with a drive to Taluka. It is a small village that is 12 km away from the Kotgaon basecamp.

If you’re trekking on your own, you can either hire a jeep (locally) for this, subject to the condition of the road, or walk till Taluka. This is a landslide-prone route and is often closed during the monsoons. The trail to Taluka is almost level, going through 10-11 mountain bends.

Notice the houses you pass by. They are built using a technique called Kath-Khuni architecture that uses a combination of wood, stone, and slate.

Such construction protects against seismic forces and harsh climactic conditions prevalent in the region. Parallel beams of wood with stones firmly placed and stuck together with mud make up the foundation of these homes, providing a solid structure to prevent the deleterious impacts that earthquakes in the region may have.

On the way, there are three big streams, almost submerging sections of the road in water. The hike is scenic, going past a series of wild roses and irises and bamboo, chestnut and cedar (deodar) trees. Just 2 km before Taluka, there is a campsite beside a stream.

You can camp here if there isn’t enough time to go to Puani Garaat i.e if you’re hiking from Kotgaon. There is also a GMVN Guesthouse at Taluka for accommodation. The dhaba food is very basic.

Trekkers with Indiahikes drive from Kotgaon to Taluka (12 km, 1 hour). Taluka is a small village with concrete houses. This is quite a contrast to the architecture in neighbouring villages like Kotgaon, Osla and Gangad, which are close to 300 years old. We start the trek towards Bhida Ka Thach from Taluka.

The trek

Descend to the riverbank of Thumsa on the left. It is a tributary of Yamuna which flows from the upper ranges of Bandarpunch. The river remains on your right. This shepherd’s trail goes along the river on a level walk. During the day, the sands glimmer along the riverbank. Notice numerous gleaming rocks of mica covering the terrain. Around 10 minutes into the hike, spot the first cemented bridge over a small stream.

Within 15 minutes of level walk you reach another bridge, this time, a wooden one. Fill your bottles here.

From here, walk uphill for 15 minutes till you see a small clearing next to the river. You can set up an emergency camp here if need be.

Another 10-15 minutes later, you’ll come across a spot where you can climb down to a tributary of River Thamsa. Look for a wooden bridge to cross this river, which is just below Datmir village. On the other side is a camping ground. From here, facing the inner part of the valley, locate two trails, one moving upwards and another going straight ahead. Take the second route straight ahead.

The trail from here is in bad condition as it is prone to landslides. After 10-15 minutes of level walk, you come across a land cleared by shepherds to set up temporary night shelters.

From here, the trail climbs up, alternating between upward and level walks. 10 minutes into the hike, look out for your first landslide-prone section. You may have to come down the river and cross the section that has caved in due to landslides. 20 minutes on this trail leads you to a wooden bridge to cross over River Thamsa.

Ignore the bridge and proceed ahead.

After 5 minutes, the trail turns steep and crisscrosses upwards. This section will take about 15-20 minutes to cover. During monsoon, expect this trail to be completely covered in mud. The trail will now relax with a series of level walks. Soon you’ll approach a stream coming down the hill on your right, with a wooden bridge over it.

For trekkers trekking by themselves, they can camp at the further campsite of Puani Garaat. The trail picks up a little altitude as you enter the forest again. After 30-40 minutes, look for an old village across the river on your left. This is Gangaad. You stay here for the night.

Gangaad is an ancient hamlet with a primary school and a temple of Someshwar Maharaj. The temple only remains open in a certain season since the residents believe that the Gods move from one temple to another through different seasons. One of the practices they perform has to do with the sacrificial goat. Every time an individual is leaving the village in pursuit of better prospects and opportunities or when a special occasion arises, a goat is sacrificed and cooked, which is then shared among all the villagers.

The mountain on the side of the village is barren and ridged as opposed to the ones across the valley, rife with spruce pines and vegetation. This is owing to variations in soil type from region to region.

Most houses in villages like Gangaad and Oslo are two or three-storied. Cattle are reared in the lower levels. Cows at the bottom floor, sheep and goats in the middle, and humans live at the top.

This mechanism keeps the homes warm during the winter months since the heat trapped below helps in regulating the temperature above.

Roofs of these houses aren’t made from aluminium sheets. They are made of tile-shaped stone sheets called patalli. These are intricately put together to make angled roofs. The weight of the stone protects from the wind and other harsh weather conditions.

Day 3: Trek from Gangaad to Kalkatiyadhar

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Trek Duration: 6 hours | Trek Distance: 8 km

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Altitude Gain: 2,365 ft (7,667 ft to 10,032 ft)

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Difficulty: Easy. Initial descent of 15 minutes followed by a mostly level walk for about 90 minutes. Steep climb for 15 minutes followed by a level walk and boulder section finishing off with a gradually ascending trail.

The path from Gangaad to Kalkatiyadhaar is relatively rockier than other sections of the trail.

There are stretches where the trail is overlaid with sizable rocks—it’s easy to sprain your ankle in these sections. In these sections, the trick is to move ahead by using the edge of rocks as a foothold—the edge is the line that juts out at the top. This provides a good grip for your shoe to move forward from without angling the ankle at all. During descents, make sure you land softly on each foot since the impact of walking on such a terrain for hours on end is bound to make your knees hurt—so try lowering the impact as much as possible. Further, walk in a meandering or zigzag fashion to alternate the pressure on each knee—this helps a lot! Moreover, wearing kneecaps may prove to be very useful since it partially absorbs the impact.

Descend from Gangaad and cross a bridge that leads you to the other side of the river. The river, which now falls on the left, is notably wider and more forceful than any other tract you may traverse along during the trek. After a half an hour walk, notice the campsite on the right. This is Chilurgarh. Walk ahead and spot a little sheltered gazebo-like structure by a wooden bridge. Such shelters usually serve as a place where people light up bonfires to warm themselves up. However, Indiahikes does not allow bonfires owing to its environmental repercussions, so refrain from starting one.

After a while, look for a diversion to your right. It takes you to a dhaba by a wooden bridge. Behind the dhaba is a small hut. Go and witness a fascinating process: the locals use the momentum of water (hydroelectricity) to run a mechanical turbine that grinds cereal into flour. Just 25 metres before the wooden bridge, on the right, is Pauni Garaat.

An alternative for the Puani Garaat campsite: Those who want to camp at Osla will have to cross the wooden bridge. Get onto the left side of River Thumsa and trek along the river to reach Osla.

An alternative route from Puani Garaat: To reach Seema, trek straight up on the true right of the river to Seema. There are a few steep ascents, but the trail often relaxes into a gradual walk. The landscape and the terrain will remain so for around 90 minutes.

From Seema, walk towards a bridge over Thumsa to the left side of the valley. Look for a small, cemented bridge, some 60 metres above you. A broken trail leads to this bridge. Walk across and get on the trail leading to Osla on the left.

Along the way, observe a rich foliage of purple poppies and other alpines with motley butterflies fluttering around in clusters of indigo, orange, white, brown, and black. A series of rhododendron trees tinted red, pink, and white, either in bloom or wound up, is a sight of unparalleled beauty. The local tea, called Chora, gets its special aftertaste from red rhododendrons (the white ones are poisonous). At several places, innocent-looking plants like Nettle and Poison Ivy splotch the ground underneath. Nettle leaves, clever in its design, sting the fingertips when touched, and you are left scratching your head looking for the pointy thorn that pricked you. Numerous white wild roses with sappy little leaves on both sides of the trail will be discernable through and through. Admire the tiny offshoots of yellow and purple flowers springing from rocky crevices and clumps of grass on the trail.

Perceive the mountains in view with frozen glaciers cleaving through the upper slopes; notice the stark contrast of glazing whiteness with the dark green overlay surrounding it. Leap from boulder to boulder to cross the pouring waterfalls, which will mellow down at places and make for shallow rivulets submerging only the soles of your boots.

After a considerable ascent, enter the village of Osla. It is a tiny village with vast open spaces. The children here play cricket using a washing bat and a rolled-up ball made by stringing together disparate pieces of cloth. A huge, sheltered place stands beside an open ground by the temple of Someshwar Devata. The ground is where the children play! It is notable that trash lying around near the villages is much more than along the trails, so make sure to collect maximum waste from here.

From Osla, trek for an hour or more. A large meadow thriving with crops of millet will come into view. With a backdrop of green hills, people rearing cattle, and travellers lazing around on rocks and the two wooden beams making an “L” beside a quirky dhaba makes for an appropriate resting place and a darling treat to the eye. Lie back and observe the endless peaks, valleys, and rivers harmonise in a beautiful, dreamy view. Explore the crops, the rocks, and bask in the afternoon sunshine or the shadow of the passing clouds, depending on the weather.

Moving on from here, after a few twists and turns and a bridge and another dhaba (drink Chora tea from here), begin your ascent to your first campsite, Kalkatiyadhar. The splendid views from the campsite involve sights of our two surreal valleys—Har ki Dun. The entirety of Hatta peaks dominates the skies, along with the Black peak (Kalanaag), Bandarpunch 1, and Bandarpunch 2. Devsu Thach, our last campsite, is also visible from here.

Sprawled all over the campsite will be tents and mats and farms and flocks of sheep chasing one another. Cows and dogs will moo and bark at one another while you are highly encouraged to stupidly bleat at the sheep who will respond with judgemental stares and look around confusedly. As much as you might love animals, do not separate any lamb from its peers (even for a selfie)—the poor thing gets very anxious.

The path from Gangaad to Kalkatiyadhaar is relatively rockier than other sections of the trail.

There are stretches where the trail is overlaid with sizable rocks—it’s easy to sprain your ankle in these sections. In these sections, the trick is to move ahead by using the edge of rocks as a foothold—the edge is the line that juts out at the top. This provides a good grip for your shoe to move forward from without angling the ankle at all. During descents, make sure you land softly on each foot since the impact of walking on such a terrain for hours on end is bound to make your knees hurt—so try lowering the impact as much as possible. Further, walk in a meandering or zigzag fashion to alternate the pressure on each knee—this helps a lot! Moreover, wearing kneecaps may prove to be very useful since it partially absorbs the impact.

Descend from Gangaad and cross a bridge that leads you to the other side of the river. The river, which now falls on the left, is notably wider and more forceful than any other tract you may traverse along during the trek. After a half an hour walk, notice the campsite on the right. This is Chilurgarh. Walk ahead and spot a little sheltered gazebo-like structure by a wooden bridge. Such shelters usually serve as a place where people light up bonfires to warm themselves up. However, Indiahikes does not allow bonfires owing to its environmental repercussions, so refrain from starting one.

After a while, look for a diversion to your right. It takes you to a dhaba by a wooden bridge. Behind the dhaba is a small hut. Go and witness a fascinating process: the locals use the momentum of water (hydroelectricity) to run a mechanical turbine that grinds cereal into flour. Just 25 metres before the wooden bridge, on the right, is Pauni Garaat.

An alternative for the Puani Garaat campsite: Those who want to camp at Osla will have to cross the wooden bridge. Get onto the left side of River Thumsa and trek along the river to reach Osla.

An alternative route from Puani Garaat: To reach Seema, trek straight up on the true right of the river to Seema. There are a few steep ascents, but the trail often relaxes into a gradual walk. The landscape and the terrain will remain so for around 90 minutes.

From Seema, walk towards a bridge over Thumsa to the left side of the valley. Look for a small, cemented bridge, some 60 metres above you. A broken trail leads to this bridge. Walk across and get on the trail leading to Osla on the left.

Along the way, observe a rich foliage of purple poppies and other alpines with motley butterflies fluttering around in clusters of indigo, orange, white, brown, and black. A series of rhododendron trees tinted red, pink, and white, either in bloom or wound up, is a sight of unparalleled beauty. The local tea, called Chora, gets its special aftertaste from red rhododendrons (the white ones are poisonous). At several places, innocent-looking plants like Nettle and Poison Ivy splotch the ground underneath. Nettle leaves, clever in its design, sting the fingertips when touched, and you are left scratching your head looking for the pointy thorn that pricked you. Numerous white wild roses with sappy little leaves on both sides of the trail will be discernable through and through. Admire the tiny offshoots of yellow and purple flowers springing from rocky crevices and clumps of grass on the trail.

Perceive the mountains in view with frozen glaciers cleaving through the upper slopes; notice the stark contrast of glazing whiteness with the dark green overlay surrounding it. Leap from boulder to boulder to cross the pouring waterfalls, which will mellow down at places and make for shallow rivulets submerging only the soles of your boots.

After a considerable ascent, enter the village of Osla. It is a tiny village with vast open spaces. The children here play cricket using a washing bat and a rolled-up ball made by stringing together disparate pieces of cloth. A huge, sheltered place stands beside an open ground by the temple of Someshwar Devata. The ground is where the children play! It is notable that trash lying around near the villages is much more than along the trails, so make sure to collect maximum waste from here.

From Osla, trek for an hour or more. A large meadow thriving with crops of millet will come into view. With a backdrop of green hills, people rearing cattle, and travellers lazing around on rocks and the two wooden beams making an “L” beside a quirky dhaba makes for an appropriate resting place and a darling treat to the eye. Lie back and observe the endless peaks, valleys, and rivers harmonise in a beautiful, dreamy view. Explore the crops, the rocks, and bask in the afternoon sunshine or the shadow of the passing clouds, depending on the weather.

Moving on from here, after a few twists and turns and a bridge and another dhaba (drink Chora tea from here), begin your ascent to your first campsite, Kalkatiyadhar. The splendid views from the campsite involve sights of our two surreal valleys—Har ki Dun. The entirety of Hatta peaks dominates the skies, along with the Black peak (Kalanaag), Bandarpunch 1, and Bandarpunch 2. Devsu Thach, our last campsite, is also visible from here.

Sprawled all over the campsite will be tents and mats and farms and flocks of sheep chasing one another. Cows and dogs will moo and bark at one another while you are highly encouraged to stupidly bleat at the sheep who will respond with judgemental stares and look around confusedly. As much as you might love animals, do not separate any lamb from its peers (even for a selfie)—the poor thing gets very anxious.

Day 4: Trek from Kalkatiyadhar to Boslo via Har Ki Dun

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Trek Duration: 5-6 hours | Trek Distance: 9 km

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Altitude Gain and Loss: 1,568 ft 840 ft (10,032 ft to 10,760 ft via 11,600 ft)

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The ridge walk from Kalkatiyadhar to Boslo can get a bit tricky. Once you pass Boslo it is a gradual walk till Har Ki Dun and back.

It’s the most exciting day of the trek!

The itinerary for the day involves trekking from Kalkatiyadhar to Har ki Dun via Boslo. The road to Boslo begins with a gentle ascent of 40–45 minutes, after which follows a flat trail. Notice the Bhojpatra trees on either side of the trail, the trunks of which will seem misshapen compared to the tall, vertical pines. The peeling nature of the trunk adds to its gnarly composition. They only grow above a certain elevation, i.e., above 10,000 ft.

Look for a magnificent waterfall which you may either cross by stepping on big boulders or by walking on thin wooden beams in a wobbly balancing act. Right by it is a dhaba big enough to accommodate 20 people. Even though it’s tempting to stop and drink chai at every stop, it’s important keep in mind that the fuel source used is not too efficient. At places where gas cylinders are not readily available, wood is the main source of fuel which is highly toxic for the environment.

Behind the dhaba is a wooden bridge, after which follows a gradual ascent till a lightning-struck tree, followed by a soothing descent of an hour or more. The walk is pleasant and relieving after all the burn your quads have endured. After the descent, turn right. Our next campsite will emerge in view.

Even though every campsite has its unique features which makes it supreme in its own way, Boslo is undoubtedly the best if one was forced to pick a “favourite”. The campsite consists of a soft, damp ground underneath which the river tends to pass—making it a natural waterbed. The expanse of the campsite is a limitless stretch from one side where the four peaks of Hatta rise along with Har ki Dun, to another side that goes towards —Ruinsara. The campsite is long and wide on all sides and consists of huge boulders to sit and ponder, scattered across the landscape. The river rushes down at an energetic pace, circumventing the rocks and boulderstones in its way which are thrust into the ground with a determined firmness. The formidable mounts ahead are very still and intimidating, making it all one of the most humbling experiences, culminating in the realisation of human fragility.

The mornings at Boslo makes the place the very archetype of Paradise on Earth when the sun floods the village with bright golden light and the birds call and respond to one another with their constant twitters.

Since it’s the summit day, everyone will carry day packs. From Boslo, the summit is attempted through a considerable ascent of 1.5–2 hours, throughout which you will meet a lot of trekkers returning from the summit and wishing you luck on the way. The surroundings are thriving with birch trees. After a while, look for a thach ahead of you. You may rest and snack on nuts to keep up the energy. Once you reach a flat expanse at the end of your ascent, notice Thumsa on your right, as clear as day and shallow enough for you to cross to the other end.

A series of patchy lightning-struck trees on the right of the river loom ominously. On your left will rise sturdy mountains, unclimbable through normal means. Right ahead, marking the summit is a small temple of Lord Shiva, encasing a huge Shivling, and a GMVH rest house just beside it. Massive boulders are scattered across the landscapes underneath which notice the trekkers warming themselves up. After a certain distance, cross a wooden bridge and begin your final ascent to reach the summit. You can either go up to the temple and take a right or traverse the grassy area without any marked trails to directly reach at the top.

A beautiful world unravels itself. On the right, get a glimpse of Swargarohini 1, 2, & 3 (4 is on the other side of the valley, and hence, not visible). Behold the Hatta peaks along with a splendid view of the Jaundhar glacier and Maninda Tal, from where Thumsa originates. It’s a sheer impossibility to comprehend the sublimity of the prospects before you. A panoramic view of the most renowned peaks contouring the skyline puts you in a trance where all you are aware of is the senses perceiving the landscape and the awareness of the self becomes an intangibility—your consciousness is an aspect wholly devoted to discerning the vistas and everything else dissolves into oblivion.

Descending to Boslo is a reward on its own, since, after a long day, you need a place like this to hold you.

It’s the most exciting day of the trek!

The itinerary for the day involves trekking from Kalkatiyadhar to Har ki Dun via Boslo. The road to Boslo begins with a gentle ascent of 40–45 minutes, after which follows a flat trail. Notice the Bhojpatra trees on either side of the trail, the trunks of which will seem misshapen compared to the tall, vertical pines. The peeling nature of the trunk adds to its gnarly composition. They only grow above a certain elevation, i.e., above 10,000 ft.

Look for a magnificent waterfall which you may either cross by stepping on big boulders or by walking on thin wooden beams in a wobbly balancing act. Right by it is a dhaba big enough to accommodate 20 people. Even though it’s tempting to stop and drink chai at every stop, it’s important keep in mind that the fuel source used is not too efficient. At places where gas cylinders are not readily available, wood is the main source of fuel which is highly toxic for the environment.

Behind the dhaba is a wooden bridge, after which follows a gradual ascent till a lightning-struck tree, followed by a soothing descent of an hour or more. The walk is pleasant and relieving after all the burn your quads have endured. After the descent, turn right. Our next campsite will emerge in view.

Even though every campsite has its unique features which makes it supreme in its own way, Boslo is undoubtedly the best if one was forced to pick a “favourite”. The campsite consists of a soft, damp ground underneath which the river tends to pass—making it a natural waterbed. The expanse of the campsite is a limitless stretch from one side where the four peaks of Hatta rise along with Har ki Dun, to another side that goes towards —Ruinsara. The campsite is long and wide on all sides and consists of huge boulders to sit and ponder, scattered across the landscape. The river rushes down at an energetic pace, circumventing the rocks and boulderstones in its way which are thrust into the ground with a determined firmness. The formidable mounts ahead are very still and intimidating, making it all one of the most humbling experiences, culminating in the realisation of human fragility.

The mornings at Boslo makes the place the very archetype of Paradise on Earth when the sun floods the village with bright golden light and the birds call and respond to one another with their constant twitters.

Since it’s the summit day, everyone will carry day packs. From Boslo, the summit is attempted through a considerable ascent of 1.5–2 hours, throughout which you will meet a lot of trekkers returning from the summit and wishing you luck on the way. The surroundings are thriving with birch trees. After a while, look for a thach ahead of you. You may rest and snack on nuts to keep up the energy. Once you reach a flat expanse at the end of your ascent, notice Thumsa on your right, as clear as day and shallow enough for you to cross to the other end.

A series of patchy lightning-struck trees on the right of the river loom ominously. On your left will rise sturdy mountains, unclimbable through normal means. Right ahead, marking the summit is a small temple of Lord Shiva, encasing a huge Shivling, and a GMVH rest house just beside it. Massive boulders are scattered across the landscapes underneath which notice the trekkers warming themselves up. After a certain distance, cross a wooden bridge and begin your final ascent to reach the summit. You can either go up to the temple and take a right or traverse the grassy area without any marked trails to directly reach at the top.

A beautiful world unravels itself. On the right, get a glimpse of Swargarohini 1, 2, & 3 (4 is on the other side of the valley, and hence, not visible). Behold the Hatta peaks along with a splendid view of the Jaundhar glacier and Maninda Tal, from where Thumsa originates. It’s a sheer impossibility to comprehend the sublimity of the prospects before you. A panoramic view of the most renowned peaks contouring the skyline puts you in a trance where all you are aware of is the senses perceiving the landscape and the awareness of the self becomes an intangibility—your consciousness is an aspect wholly devoted to discerning the vistas and everything else dissolves into oblivion.

Descending to Boslo is a reward on its own, since, after a long day, you need a place like this to hold you.

Day 5: Trek from Boslo to Devsu Thatch

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Trek Duration: 5 hours | Trek Distance: 5.5 km

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Altitude Gain: ⇗ 830 ft (10,760 ft to 9,930 ft)

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Difficulty: Immediate climb after the Boslo campsite later it’s a gradual ascent till Swarnadhara.

The route from Boslo to Devsu Thatch is a cakewalk compared to what you have accomplished. It’s mostly a levelled trail where trekking will feel more like a stroll. Initially, there’s a beautiful forest stretch which you must experience by staying mindful and engaging your senses. Pay attention to the smells and how they change throughout the stretch. Listen to the birds chirruping to one another. If the air is cold, let the chill and the goosebumps overwhelm you. Notice the wandering butterflies and observe the rocks you step on. This flourishing extent will have so much to give so take it all in.

Towards the end of the forest, observe the snow-capped mountains reflecting a blinding whiteness under the sun. On your left is Swargarohini along with other peaks. The legend in the region tells of the impossibility of climbing Swargarohini—the mountain through which the Pandavas achieved their ascent to heaven. It says that whoever attempted to climb the magnificent peak has had to return owing to some snowstorm or rainsquall, however, no-one has ever met their demise during the climb.

The trail to Devsu Thach mostly consists of a levelled trail with a few descents and ascents on the way. There is a forest stretch after which, ascend to a bridge across the Kyarakoti river and attempt the steepest ascent of the trek. The ascent will take around half an hour and one will require multiple halts in between. Make sure you make good use of the trekking pole/s to partially take off the burden off your legs. It is a meandering ascent with large vein-like roots protruding out of the ground—they make for good footholds. There is a short, levelled trail in between where you may catch your breath.

After the ascent, vast meadows with trees and shrubs and boulders pockmarking the scene will greet you and relieve you of the anticipation for an opportunity to plump yourselves down with exhaustion as you reach the campsite. Devsu Thach is a great expanse with tall conifer trees at the beginning followed by a plain grassland near the slopes, overlooking the mountains on the other side. Look for the mules and cows grazing and loafing around with the herdsmen scattered all over. The campsite at Kalkatiyadhar along with the meadow on the top is clearly visible from here. The campsite is ideal for a night trek!

The route from Boslo to Devsu Thatch is a cakewalk compared to what you have accomplished. It’s mostly a levelled trail where trekking will feel more like a stroll. Initially, there’s a beautiful forest stretch which you must experience by staying mindful and engaging your senses. Pay attention to the smells and how they change throughout the stretch. Listen to the birds chirruping to one another. If the air is cold, let the chill and the goosebumps overwhelm you. Notice the wandering butterflies and observe the rocks you step on. This flourishing extent will have so much to give so take it all in.

Towards the end of the forest, observe the snow-capped mountains reflecting a blinding whiteness under the sun. On your left is Swargarohini along with other peaks. The legend in the region tells of the impossibility of climbing Swargarohini—the mountain through which the Pandavas achieved their ascent to heaven. It says that whoever attempted to climb the magnificent peak has had to return owing to some snowstorm or rainsquall, however, no-one has ever met their demise during the climb.

The trail to Devsu Thach mostly consists of a levelled trail with a few descents and ascents on the way. There is a forest stretch after which, ascend to a bridge across the Kyarakoti river and attempt the steepest ascent of the trek. The ascent will take around half an hour and one will require multiple halts in between. Make sure you make good use of the trekking pole/s to partially take off the burden off your legs. It is a meandering ascent with large vein-like roots protruding out of the ground—they make for good footholds. There is a short, levelled trail in between where you may catch your breath.

After the ascent, vast meadows with trees and shrubs and boulders pockmarking the scene will greet you and relieve you of the anticipation for an opportunity to plump yourselves down with exhaustion as you reach the campsite. Devsu Thach is a great expanse with tall conifer trees at the beginning followed by a plain grassland near the slopes, overlooking the mountains on the other side. Look for the mules and cows grazing and loafing around with the herdsmen scattered all over. The campsite at Kalkatiyadhar along with the meadow on the top is clearly visible from here. The campsite is ideal for a night trek!

Day 6: Trek from Devsu Thatch to Dhatmer

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Trek Duration: 6-7 hours | Trek Distance: 9.5 km

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Altitude Gain and Loss:⇘2,105 ft (9,930 ft to 7,825 ft)

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Difficulty: Gradual descent till Gangaad and an ascent to Dhatmer.

The trail will take you back in time. From here, trace the former trail across the valley till Gangaad. The campsites and villages you have passed will flit across your memory when you recognise them with their little landmarks and quirks. You may also chance upon a deranged man living in a dilapidated house. claiming to once have been a Prime Minister and having worked with other political leaders of the country—talk to him, believe his fantastical stories, and move on with a strange memory. A little ahead is a dhaba. Rest up, rehydrate yourselves, and eat (try omelettes and egg bhurjis). Moving ahead, Gangaad will soon emerge in view.

From Gangaad, take the trail that goes to the left. It's an ascent through the lovely secluded forest section. In no time, you will reach Dhatmer - your stay for the night.

The trail will take you back in time. From here, trace the former trail across the valley till Gangaad. The campsites and villages you have passed will flit across your memory when you recognise them with their little landmarks and quirks. You may also chance upon a deranged man living in a dilapidated house. claiming to once have been a Prime Minister and having worked with other political leaders of the country—talk to him, believe his fantastical stories, and move on with a strange memory. A little ahead is a dhaba. Rest up, rehydrate yourselves, and eat (try omelettes and egg bhurjis). Moving ahead, Gangaad will soon emerge in view.

From Gangaad, take the trail that goes to the left. It's an ascent through the lovely secluded forest section. In no time, you will reach Dhatmer - your stay for the night.

Day 7: Drive from Dhatmer to Kotgaon and then back to Dehradun.

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Drive Distance: 196 km | Drive Duration: 9-10 hours

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Altitude Loss: ⇘1,370 ft (7,825 ft to 6,455 ft)

It's a 3 km t down the Dhatmer until you reach the road head. From here take the Jeep to Kotgaon.

Clear your rentals and merchandise and drive back to Dehradun to

The Jeeps will take you back to Kotgaon. Since this is your last day as a team, talk and express gratitude towards one another. Stay up and weep at the fond memories you have created together.

It's a 3 km t down the Dhatmer until you reach the road head. From here take the Jeep to Kotgaon.

Clear your rentals and merchandise and drive back to Dehradun to

The Jeeps will take you back to Kotgaon. Since this is your last day as a team, talk and express gratitude towards one another. Stay up and weep at the fond memories you have created together.

Moderate | Level 3

Suitable for Fit Beginners

At Indiahikes, while rating a trek difficulty we consider several factors. These include altitude gained every day, length of a trek every day, highest altitude, nature of the terrain, weather etc. Based on this we rate a trek as easy or difficult or somewhere in between.

Har Ki dun Trek is a moderate trek level 3 on a difficulty level ranging from easy to difficult. 

You start from Kotgaon which is at an altitude of 6,455 ft. You reach a maximum altitude of 11,600 ft at Har ki Dun on day 4.

In terms of terrain, for the most part, it is an easy hike through the valley.

But there are 2 big reasons why we rate the trek as a moderate one. They are: 

 The long-distance you cover every day:  Expect to hike an average of 10 km a day
 The lack of multiple exits:  There is only one. The way into the valley is the only way out. So this makes evacuations a bit challenging. 

Watch this video to get an idea about difficult sections on the trek:

Having said that it is still a trek that can be done by fit first-timers.

You will need at least 4 weeks of solid preparation for this trek. You can begin preparation by going for brisk walks and then doing brisk jogs to improve your cardio. Your target should be to cover 5 km in 35 minutes comfortably by the start of the trek.

Safety on the Har Ki Dun Trek

The good news is that the Har Ki Dun trek does not have too many sections that pose a challenge in terms of terrain. The long distances covered on the trek might tire you, but there aren’t many tricky areas on the trail that will test you too much.

Here are the only sections where you’ll need to be extra cautious:

River crossings with a rope and pulley system (if bridges have been washed off)

The entire Har Ki Dun trail is laid out along the length of the Thamsa river. There are hardly any sections where you’re not accompanied by a river/stream.

This means you’re constantly crossing rivers and streams on this trek. Most of the time, there are wooden / cement bridges that help you across.

But it is not uncommon to see wooden bridges washed off by the river. In such cases, you may have to get across the river with a rope and pulley system.

Safety Advice: In these sections, closely follow instructions given to you by the Technical Team. Don’t do anything outside what the Technical team has asked of you.

The Har Ki Dun trek starts at 6,900 ft and climbs to 11,600 ft. You may feel that the trek does not climb very high.

However, you must not overlook the fact that you reach as high as 9,900 on the second day of the trek at Kalkathiyadhar.

The Har Ki Dun trek also has long distances to cover every day making it a bit tiring for someone who is not adequately prepared.

This quick height gain and fatigue of walking long distances can make some people prone to develop AMS at the Kalkathiyadhar campsite. Watch out for symptoms like loss of appetite, nausea, a mild lingering headache or inability to sleep at night.

If your symptoms do not subside on basic treatment for AMS and rest, it is better not to go further into the trek.

If you are trekking with Indiahikes, at any point in the trek,  inform your trek leader about your condition immediately if you feel any symptoms of AMS. All Indiahikes trek leaders are trained to take care of your health and safety during medical emergencies of any sort. 

In the case of AMS, early detection and treatment can ensure your successful trek completion. 

If you are trekking on your own, the immediate step to take would be to start on a curative course of Diamox which is 250 mg every 12 hours followed by ample rest.  The earlier you treat these symptoms, the higher the chances of recovering and completing the trek.

If the symptoms don’t alleviate after treatment, it is best to head down to Kotgaon immediately. Do not continue the trek if any of the symptoms persist.

Here are some stories of Indiahikes trek leaders saving lives during emergencies in remote mountainous areas.

Here’s a Complete Guide to Acute Mountains Sickness, HAPE and HACE:

  1. What Is Altitude sickness? A Quick Look At AMS, HAPE And HACE
  2. How To Treat Altitude Sickness – AMS, HAPE, & HACE
  3. How To Prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), HAPE and HACE
  4. 3 Life Saving Drugs You MUST Have To Tackle Altitude Sickness – AMS, HAPE and HACE

When it comes to weather the trek is safe throughout the times it is open.

However, there are a few times when the weather does impact the nature of the trail and terrain.

If you’re trekking to Har Ki Dun in winter (December), and the year’s winter snow has already come in, expect to start seeing snow as soon as you enter the trail (sometimes even from Taluka).

As for later months, given that Har Ki Dun is a deep valley and doesn’t see much sunlight, it retains snow till the end of April, and sometimes early May. If you’re trekking in the summer months, expect to see snow from Kalkatiyadhar onwards.

The snow makes the trail slippery. However, this can be managed with the right gear – namely microspikes and gaiters.

Ensure your microspikes are worn before you step on snow. Hard snow is extremely prone to slips. A small slip can result in injuries like a ligament tear, a sprained ankle or even a fracture. Always put your foot on footholds made by earlier trekkers.

Look out for deep footholds. Do not try to make new paths of your own. Avoid overtaking one another or fishing out your camera for pictures.

At Indiahikes, our technical team makes footholds required for trekkers to step on.

As mentioned above you’ll find this snow section right after Kalkatiyadhar campsites. The trail is lined with snow and requires caution.

Usually, these narrow sections do not require ropes. However, if the snow is feeble, the technical team does use ropes to take the team forward.

The technical team will also be assisted by the Indiahikes Trek Leader.

Emergency Exits: In case of any emergency, it is important to know how to exit from the trail quickly.

Unfortunately, when it comes to the Har ki Dun trek, the farther you go into the valley the more difficult it is to make a quick exit.

Har Ki Dun trek has only one exit which is retracing your way back to Taluka and Kotgaon.

This means, that in case there are any medical emergencies, you have to descend to Taluka and then take a vehicle to the closest medical help.

From Taluka, you can hire a jeep to Purola. Evacuation may take up to 24 hours since you are deep in the valley and the roads connecting Kotgaon and Purola are notoriously bad.

Closest Hospitals: For mild medical issues, the closest medical assistance can be found in Mori and then in Purola. This includes simple fractures, sprain, etc. 

1. Mori 

Government Hospital
Mori – Sankari Rd, Mautar, Uttarakhand – 249128 

Primary Health Center
Mori, Uttarakhand – 249128
Ph: 01373 234 486

 2. Barkot 

Government Hospital
Barkot, Uttarakhand – 249141

Swami Vivekanand Dharmarth Chikitsalay
Barkot, Uttarakhand – 249141
Ph: 095576 19690

However, for major medical emergencies, the nearest hospital is in Mussoorie or Dehradun – which is almost 8-9 hours away from the base camp of the trek.

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

One of the best things about Har Ki Dun Trek is that it can be done almost seven months in a year.

Starting in the spring month of March, you can trek through the summer until late June. Then the monsoon arrives, shutting down the Govind Pashu Vihar Sanctuary for about 3 months.

Thereafter the trekking season resumes in September continuing till the end of November. The heavy snow-laden trail thereafter makes it impossible to trek for the rest of the winter until later in Spring. The forest department of Uttarakhand also shuts the Har Ki Dun trek for visitors post-December until mid-March.

Watch this video to know more about the best time to trek and how the trek looks during different seasons:

Har Ki Dun trek in Spring/Summer (March to June)

img Day time: Between 18 °C and 24 °C | Night time: Will drop to temperatures between 3 °C and 8 °C.

img Presence of snow: You will not find any snow in the summer season.

img No. of warm layers required: 2 warm layers.

The trek opens in mid-March. In March, you’ll see the valley covered in patches of snow. Especially starting from Kalkatiyadhar to Devsu Thatch.

The snow patches are remnants of the winter gone by. The reason for the snow this late in the season is that the valleys leading to Har Ki Dun are narrow.

As you head into the summer months of April and May, the snow melts the few grasslands along the trail and starts turning brown and then green. April and May are also Spring which sees an abundance of flowers blooming in the woods and the meadows.

If there is a popular season then March to June is the best time to do the Har Ki Dun trek.

But as the monsoon month draws closer, rains start getting more frequent in the valley. Frequent showers starting in late May turn the valley greener and greener in late June.

The trek then closes for the monsoon season.

Har Ki Dun trek in Autumn/Winter (September to November)

img Day time: Between 8 °C and 10 °C | Night time: Will drop to temperatures between 0 °C and -5 °C.

img Presence of snow: There are high chances of witnessing the first snowfall of the winter season either during the end of October or in the month of November.

img No. of warm layers required: 5 warm layers.

It is in September that the valley reopens again for the trekkers.

There are lesser people on the trail as compared to the spring and summer.  The views are equally spectacular.

If you’re someone looking for solitude then September to December is the best time to do Har Ki Dun.

In September you’ll notice the monsoons have turned the valley into a lush green. The air is also clearer offering you a better view of the surrounding landscapes.

As autumn arrives, the temperatures start dropping and there is a crisp chill in the air. You’ll observe the high mountain peaks experiencing the odd snowfall or two.

But down in the valley, the greens start turning to a shade of brown until they’re golden in October and November.

The valley experiences its first snowfall usually in mid-December. It is a wonderful feeling to experience the first snowfall of the season.

Making snowmen and having snowball fights is something that trekkers cherish and remember for a long time.

At Indiahikes, we wind up the trek for the year by the end of November.

Beyond November, the snowfall gets heavy and tends to accumulate up to several feet. This blocks the trail to campsites beyond Kalkathiyadhar and it is virtually impossible to complete the trek.

The forest department of Uttarakhand also shuts the Har Ki Dun trek for visitors post-December until mid-March during the migration of animals in the Govind Pashu Vihar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary.

Planning your onward flight/train booking

If you are travelling from Bengaluru, Chennai, Pune, Mumbai or any other city, book your air tickets for Day Zero, which is the day before Day 1 on the itinerary. If your trek start day is 25 August, book your air tickets for 24 August to either Delhi/Dehradun. 

Watch this video for tips on how to reach Dehradun:

There are two options.

Option 1: Fly directly to Dehradun

We recommend this. It gives you an added rest day at Dehradun. Most metros are directly connected to Dehradun. However, if the cost of the flight ticket to Dehradun is too high, book to Delhi and connect to Dehradun by train/bus.

Tip: Train is the best option to get to Dehradun. Bus journeys are often delayed by a few hours.  

Taxis are available from the airport (plenty). Prepaid taxis are available (look for the pre-paid taxi counter just out of the conveyor belt at the arrivals). You can also flag down a taxi (bargain a bit) with taxis outside the airport. Airport taxis are exorbitant. They usually charge between Rs 800 to Rs 1,000 to Dehradun. 

Usually, most passengers take taxis from the airport. Try to hook up with co-passengers on the flight for your taxi ride to Dehradun. 

Pro Tip: If you want to save real money try to catch an auto just outside the airport terminal complex. They usually come there to drop passengers off. Autos are not allowed to enter the airport complex. They charge approximately Rs 300 to Dehradun. 

If autos are not available, walk for a further 1.5 km to get to the Rishikesh Dehradun highway. From the highway, you can flag down regular town buses or shared autos (shared autos are called Vikram's). Bus fare is about Rs 30 to Dehradun. Shared autos charge about Rs 20. 

Option 2: Flying to Delhi

Flying to Delhi may be a lot cheaper than getting to Dehradun. Make sure to book a flight that reaches Delhi by 8.00 pm. You must arrive in Delhi on Day Zero and not on Day 1.

Note: If you notice the difference in air ticket prices between Delhi and Dehradun is less than Rs 1000 then book directly to Dehradun. The rest and shorter travel time are worth the difference.  

Next, book yourself on the Nanda Devi Express to Dehradun (Train No: 12401). It is a fully AC train that leaves at 23.35 hrs from Hazrat Nizamuddin and gets to Dehradun at 5.40 am. 

NoteEarlier the Nanda Devi express would depart from New Delhi railway station. From 26 Aug 2019, it leaves from Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station. The train now comes from Kota. So expect about 15 to 30 mins delay in arrival. The train number has changed too from 12206 to 12401.

At Hotel Grand Legacy, near Laal Pull, Dehradun/Library Chowk, Mussourie, wait for Indiahikes pick up at 6.30 am/7.30 am. Contact your driver by 6.00 am. The number of your transport coordinator will be shared with you a week before your departure. 

Caution: Do not book on any other train except the Nanda Devi Express. The other option, Mussoorie express, is notorious for its delay. Your pickup vehicle may leave without you. If you do not get tickets on the Nanda Devi Express, take a bus from Delhi to Haridwar, but do not book on the Mussoorie express.

Pro Tip: Take the afternoon Jan Shatabdi express from New Delhi railway station (leaves at 3.20 pm) to arrive at Dehradun by 21:10 in the night. Stay overnight at Dehradun. Take the Indiahikes to pick up the next morning directly from Hotel Grand Legacy (near Laal Pull), Dehradun/Library Chowk, Mussourie.   

Bus: If in case you do not get a train ticket, there are regular Volvo AC buses from Delhi’s ISBT Kashmiri Gate to Dehradun. You also get Non-AC buses. Buses are frequent and not usually crowded. You can get a bus almost every half hour. Buses take 7-8 hours to get to Dehradun from Delhi. AC bus tickets cost about Rs 700. 

Planning your return flight/train booking

Booking your return tickets requires some thought. First, keep some buffer time in mind before booking tickets. If you are scheduled to reach Dehradun around 6.30 pm, book your onward bus or train tickets only after 9 pm. In case you are stuck in traffic or get delayed at your lunch spot, you will have some buffer time to catch your bus/train.

Next, if your onward flight departs from Delhi/Dehradun, then book flight tickets for Day 7. 

Sometimes trekkers worry if they can book an early morning flight out of Delhi on Day 7. Yes, you can. But book flights that depart only after 8 am. Do not book any flight between 6.00 and 8 am. You may not reach Delhi in time. 

How to get to Delhi on time for an early morning flight

If your flight is early, say between 8.00 and 9.00 am, then there are two options. 

Train: Take the Nanda Devi Express from Dehradun (12402) that leaves at 22:40 hrs to get to Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station at 04:50 in the morning. From Hazrat Nizamuddin, you get airport buses from outside the station as well as taxis. The Metro train is somewhat inconvenient from Hazrat Nizamuddin. 

NoteEarlier Nanda Devi express would arrive at the New Delhi railway station. From 26 August 2019, it has been extended up to Kota. It no longer goes to the New Delhi railway station. Instead, it goes to Hazrat Nizamuddin railway stationThe train number has changed from 12206 to 12402.    

Bus: The other option is to take a bus from Dehradun. It is about a 6½ – 7 hrs journey to Delhi. So if you take a bus that leaves around 9.00 pm, then expect to reach Delhi at around 04.00 am (ISBT Kashmiri Gate). A bus that leaves at 10:00 pm will reach Delhi around 05.00 am. AC Volvo buses are the fastest, so opt for them. Non AC buses can take up to 7-8 hrs for the journey. 

From Kashmiri Gate ISBT you get Airport buses or taxis.

Note: Metro trains in Delhi do not start before 5.00 am.  

If you are taking a flight out of Dehradun

If you are taking a flight out of Dehradun then book yourself on Day 9. Most metros are now well connected by Dehradun by flight.

Planning your hotel/stay

In Dehradun, look for hotels around your pick up point. There are quite a few options available online and it is not difficult to find last-minute hotel bookings.

Hotel options at Dehradun

1. Hotel Grand Legacy is where your pick up is. It's a nice option. It has clean rooms with good amneties. Rooms ranges from Rs 1,800 onwards depending on the booking website.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/tcbToJs1qnu3JP349

Phone: +91-9358774612

2. Nomads House is another new backpacker hostel in Dehradun. The atmosphere is good. The place is neat and clean. Indiahikes trek leaders love Nomads House. It is about 10 mins from the Dehradun railway station. Bunk beds start at Rs 400, rooms start at Rs 800. Shared autos are easily available to get to Nomads House.

Location: https://g.page/NomadsHouse?share

Phone: +91-9760596464

3. Hotel Drona, which is a government property owned by the GMVN is decent. It is an old, but large and spacious property. It is about 1.5 km from Dehradun railway station. Rooms start at Rs 750.

Phone: +91-9568006631

Book online https://gmvnonline.com/room-tariff.php?trhID=9&adults=&child=&checkindate=&checkoutdate=

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/sjWSkGhe5LfAN8wDA

4. Simran Guest house is another option near Grand Legacy. It has very basic amneties with rooms starting from Rs 700 onwards.

Location: https://g.page/simran-guest-house?share

Phone: +91 - 9219882447

Hotel options near Jolly Grant Airport

1. Sun n Soil Backpackers hostel is a great option, if you want to stay near Jolly Grant airport. It's a great place for backpackers and travellers as it has a different ambience. Bunk beds start at Rs 450, rooms start at Rs 1,000.

Location: https://g.page/sun-n-soil-backpacker-hostel?share

Phone: +91 - 9634570743

How to reach Kotgoan on your own?

If you are trekking on your own, here's how you can reach on your own.

Dehradun to Kotgaon by Bus

There are 2 buses (1 private and 1 state transport bus) that leave from Dehradun.

 The private bus leaves from ISBT, Dehradun to Sankri (near Kotgaon) at 5.00 am.

 The state transport bus leaves from the bus stop next to Dehradun railway station at 7.00 am.

The bus fare is Rs 450 per person.

These buses leave for Sankri. To reach Kotgaon, get down at Netwar.

From Netwar, you get shared taxis to Kotgaon. But these taxis are not frequent. If you are in a group, you can divide it amongst you. Otherwise, hiring an entire taxi would cost Rs 1,200 - Rs 1,500.

These are documents required for legal purposes by Indiahikes and the forest department. Without any of these, you will not be allowed to trek.

  1. Original and photocopy of government photo identity card. Anything such as a driver’s license, Aadhar Card, or passport will do. This is required by the forest department for your identification.  
  2. Medical and Disclaimer certificate. There are two sections to this. One is to be filled by a practicing doctor and the second is filled by you. The disclaimer certificate is a legal requirement.
    Download the PDF, read carefully, print it back to back, and sign it. This must be handed over to your Trek Leader during the registration at the base camp. This is a requirement by both the forest department and Indiahikes – Download the PDF

    Note: Please carry the above document with you. The document needs to be downloaded (PDF), filled in, signed, and handed over to the trek leader at the base camp. Please print these back-to-back on two sheets. Do not print separately and help in reducing paper usage.

PRO TIPS

Keep important documents in a clear plastic cover and slide them into the inner pocket at the back of your backpack. This keeps them from getting wet.

Before you purchase any gear, make sure you visit the Indiahikes rental store, where you can get custom-made high-quality gear at 5% of the buying cost. Rental of gear opens one month in advance of your trek date. You need to book them before the stock runs out.

You can rent trekking shoes, backpacks, padded jackets, trekking poles, rainwear and headlamps for less than Rs 1400 for the entire duration of your trek. Visit the store here.

Here is a list of everything you need for your trek.

Shoes and backpack

Warm Layers and Clothes

  • Warm layers (Padded jackets available on rent)
    - 3 layers if you're trekking in spring, summer and monsoon (1 woollen sweater, 1 fleece, 1 padded jacket)
    - 4 layers if you're trekking in autumn (1 woollen sweater, 2 fleece, 1 padded jacket)
    - 5 layers if you're trekking in winter (1 pair of thermals, 1 woollen sweater, 2 fleece, 1 padded jacket)
  • 3 Collared T-shirts (Wear one, carry two)
  • 2 quick-dry trek pants (Wear one, carry one)

Accessories 

Toiletries:

Cutlery:

  • Steel lunch box, spoon and mug
  • Two water bottles or a Hydration Pack

Once you run through this list, don't miss this ultimate guide on what gear to take on a trekIt contains tips on what gear to choose, where to get it from and how much to spend on it.

Our only tip: Keep your backpack light. Indiahikes practices low-impact sustainable trekking in every aspect of the trek. Carrying your own personal backpack reduces your impact on the mountains by 20%. We expect all our trekkers to carry their own backpacks unless they have a justifiable reason not to.

Carry these medicines with you, easily accessible at all times. Do not take any medicine unless you have consulted your trek leader

  1. Diamox (1 Strip): Be on a course of a half tablet of Diamox starting from Delhi every 12 hours (125 mg). Carry on the medication until you descend to Kotgaon. Being on a preventive course of Diamox greatly reduces the chances of Acute Mountain Sickness on the Har Ki Dun trek.   
  2. Dolo 650 (5 tablets): This is a paracetamol. It helps to tackle fever, mild pain
  3. Avomine (4 tablets): Carry this especially if you are prone to motion sickness. Pop one-half hour before the start of your road journey.
  4. Combiflam (5 tablets): Take a combiflam if you get a sudden twist of the leg or a muscle strain. It is a pain reliever. It also contains paracetamol. 
  5. Digene (4 tablets): Take it if you feel the food that you’ve taken is undigested. Alert your trek leader immediately. It could be a sign of AMS. 
  6. ORS (6 packs): Consume a pack of ORS water at least once a day, usually mid-day when you are in the middle of your trek. It replenishes essential salts lost while trekking.  Tip: It also makes cold water easier to drink.
  7. Knee Brace (optional): Carry this if you are prone to knee injury or have known issues of knee pain.

Our trek leaders carry a high altitude medical kit with them which also consist of Life Saving Drugs. If there is an emergency our trek leaders know how to tackle it. Meanwhile, contact your trek leader before consuming any of these medicines listed here.

Pro Tip: We find that these medicines by trekkers are rarely used. But you cannot do away with them. At the end of the trek please donate unused medicines to your trek leader. Some of these medicines get distributed to villages on the trek and some are added to the Indiahikes medical kit.

Indiahikes will organise transport to and fro Hotel Grand Legacy (near Laal Pull), Dehradun and the base camp Kotgaon, on the first day of the trek. This will be in 5-6 seater vehicles. The cost of each vehicle transport one way is Rs 6000. A 10-12 seater vehicle costs Rs.9,000 one way. It will be shared among co trekkers in the same vehicle.

Har Ki Dun is considered a moderate trek. This is because the distance covered on most days is long, an average of around 10 km. Also, the trek itself is 8 days which makes it very tiring. It is a good trek for fit first-timers. You need to make sure you are physically fit to walk 10 km on average in the mountains.

You will need at least 4 weeks of good preparation for this trek. You can begin preparation by going for brisk walks and then doing brisk jogs to improve your cardio. Your target should be to cover 5 km in 35 minutes comfortably by the start of the trek.

You will need to bring everything mentioned on the things to take tab. We have trek poles, shoes, backpacks and padded jackets on rent.

All rental gear needs to be booked and paid for online on your dashboard. It will be provided to you at the base camp before you begin the trek.

Dehradun is connected by air to most major cities in India. You can either fly directly to Dehradun and spend the night before the pickup. Another option is to fly to Delhi and take an overnight train the Nanda Devi Express (Kota SSN Express) to Dehradun. Do not take the Mussoorie express as it is always late.

You can look at Hotel Drona and Hotel Grand. They are both close to the railway station as well.

Yes, we have an option of leaving behind extra luggage you do not need on the trek, at our base camp, Kotgaon. Ensure you leave no valuables (laptops, cash, electronics) in this luggage. There is no extra charge for leaving this luggage at the base camp, and you do not have to pre-book it anywhere.

Yes you can!

If you are above the age of 58 years, you’ll need to submit a Treadmill Test (not older than 12 months) within a week of completing your trek registration. Apart from this, you should also be able to jog 5 km in 45 minutes.

Having more footprint through porters or mules on any trail isn’t good for the ecosystem. This is why, at Indiahikes, we do not encourage offloading. A trekker carries his/her own backpack in the true spirit of trekking.

But if — due to a medical condition — you are unable to carry your own backpack, you may offload your backpack.

The cost of offloading on the Har ki Dun trek is Rs 1,890 for the trek.

Find details about the offloading process here.

We recommend jogging as the best routine to get fit for a trek. It works on the same muscles that you use while trekking — your calves, glutes and hamstrings. It helps increase your stamina day by day. It is also an easy routine that does not require any equipment or tools

Fitness target:

To do this trek comfortably, you must be able to cover 5 km in under 35 minutes. This is the minimum fitness required for this trek.

How to achieve this fitness? 
  • Start jogging at least 4 days a week 
  • If you cannot run 5 km immediately, start with 2 km and increase to 5 km over 2-3 weeks.
  • Once you’re able to run 5 km, increase your pace day by day. 
  • Gradually increase your pace and bring it down to 5 km in less than 35 mins.
  • You must be able to run 5 km in 35 mins consistently for at least 2 weeks before the trek. 

This trek requires at least 6-8 weeks of preparation. The longer, the better. So plan your trek soon and start preparing. 

Here's a complete guide to get you trek fit.

Strength training tips:

How to get Fitness Approval from the Indiahikes team:

Every trekker needs fitness approval from the Indiahikes team 20 days before the trek date. Without this, you will not be allowed on the trek. 

What to upload? 
  • A minimum of 3 screenshots of your runs/jogs/walks/cycling 
  • Monthly summary of your routine

Why fitness matters: 

Every high-altitude trek comes with a set of challenges. Steep ascents and descents, uneven terrain, snow walks, stream crossings, pass crossings, and summit climb. Even the easiest of treks have some of these challenges if not all of them. Without fitness, trekkers struggle, get injured easily, lag behind, or simply fail to complete the trek. 

At Indiahikes, we take pride in the fact that our trekkers are among the fittest in the country. Those who do not meet the fitness requirements are often sent back. Our philosophy is that trekking and fitness go hand in hand. Without fitness, there’s no trekking. 

Green Trails

Leaving the mountains better than we find them

At Indiahikes, we focus on bringing in new practices that can reduce our impact on the environment.  This is done through constant R&D.  Once these new practices are implemented we focus on achieving the results consistently on all our treks. You will see this as part of our G6 practices. 

Golden 1: Green Sweep - Clean the trail of visible litter.  We have collected more than 1,00,000 kgs of waste since 2016.

Golden 2: Segregation At Source - Segregate all waste collected so that we do not add all this waste to the landfill.  We have diverted 50% of the waste from landfill through segregation

Golden 3: Food Composting - All our kitchen waste is composted into useful humus for the mountain soil.  All food waste is either eaten by mules or composted at source.

Golden 4: Biotoilets - All our human waste is composted at source through our specially designed dry toilet pits. 

Golden 5: Water efficient dispenser  - We have reduced our waste used per trekker by 70% through specially designed water dispenser systems.

Golden 6: Save energy - We use solar panels for our energy use at our campsites.  We are also in the process of redesigning our stove and menu to reduce the amount of gas used on our treks.

Our trekkers are a big part of us keeping our promise to leave the mountains better than we found them. 

  • Indiahikes trekkers do not carry anything that can harm the environment - be it wet wipes, or any packaged food on the trek.  In fact they practice a zero waste trek.
  • Indiahikes trekkers do not buy any packaged food in the dhabas on the trek - they do not take part in feeding the demand for packaged food 
  • Indiahikes trekkers clean the trails of waste using the eco bag as part of the Green Sweep Initiattive 
  • Indiaihikes trekkers carry their own backpack on the trek. They do not offload unless absolutely necessary
  • Indiahikes trekkers do not pee/poop near any water source 
  • Indiahikes trekkers do not stray away from the marked trail

Trekkers who sign up with us pledge to follow these practices.  When you sign up with us, you do too.

How you can be a Green Trails Crusader on the Har Ki Dun trek? - We can majorly identify 3 waste hotspots which you can collect and leave the mountains better.

One is just at the start of the trek at Taluka. The second hotspot is present around all the villages during the trek. The third spot is close to Har Ki Dun and near the temple region. So keep an eye out on these locations on your trek.

Everything you do on a trek creates an impact. The trail you trek on, the water you use, the waste you generate, how you poop, how you cook, what you eat — everything has an impact. The higher the impact, the greater the damage to the environment. 

Yet, when done sustainably, trekking is one of the most environment-friendly sports.

When you trek with Indiahikes, you trek to leave the mountains better than we found them.  This is part of our Green Trails promise.

Safety

How We Keep You Safe

Outside the facilitators, their fellow members, our Trek Leaders play a pivotal role in keeping all participants safe on the trek. It is not easy to be a Trek Leader with Indiahikes. There is a long, stringent, and difficult selection process. 

After this they undergo a rigorous 8 month induction and training program before they are certified as Trek Leaders at Indiahikes.

All our Trek Leaders are certified mountaineers with a Basic Mountaineering Course or Advanced Mountaineering Course. Among them, the ones who are Wilderness First Responders (NOLS-certified) are assigned to lead all participants.

Apart from the Trek Leaders, we have technical guides, trek guides, program facilitators and assistants who accompany all team members. All of them are given specialised training in handling emergency mountain situations. If a situation arises, anyone of our team members will be able to evacuate the team members to safety, even in the middle of the night. 

Ultimately, even an expert team such as ours cannot keep all participants safe unless they follow stringent safety processes. These are processes that have been developed by us for over ten years. They have been put in place after considering every scenario and evaluating every risk of a trek. 

Our risk assessment and management systems are extensive and deep, as you will discover when you sign up with us. There is a process for preparing team members, a process to monitor their health 3 times a day, a process for management of accidents, a process for managing altitude sickness, and a process for evacuation. There are processes for even trekking and a separate process for difficult sections. Any potential risk is nipped in the bud.

Our extensive trek experience matters here. The trekking trails are not new to us. These trekking trails have been nurtured and developed by us for many years. We have our own base camps on these trails. 

From the time the trek starts till it ends, the safety of all team members is our responsibility. 

On the trek, we have a staff-to-team member ratio of 1:5. This means for every 5 team members there is an Indiahikes staff monitoring them closely.

Most of the modern safety equipment used in the Indian trekking community has been introduced by us. This has fundamentally changed how trekking is done in our country.

In all of our treks, we carry a high-altitude medical kit, an evacuation kit, a technical kit, radio equipment, and oxygen cylinders (pulse oximeters and BP monitors are standard equipment carried by our Trek Leaders, including ropes and carabiners).

Trek Trivia

Things Nobody Tells You About Har Ki Dun

A rare temple dedicated to Duryodhana-King of Kauravas

All along the trek route, in the villages as well as on the trail, you will come across many temples dedicated to the local gods and goddesses. You will learn that the people here deeply revere the Mahabharata. But what will take you completely by surprise is that they not only worship the Pandavas, but they also pray to the Kauravas! 

While trekking to Osla, you come across a shrine dedicated entirely to Duryodhana — the king of the Kauravas, the only other known temple being Poruvazhy Peruviruthy Malanada located in Kerala.  

Ancient architecture and carvings

The beauty begins right at Kotgaon, Indiahikes’ base camp for the Har Ki Dun trek. Kotgaon has ancient wooden houses, some dating back to even 300 years. The houses are built of wood and stone. You’ll notice smooth carvings of flowers, leaves, and sometimes tigers on the façade and the pillars. Run your hand over them. It’s an ancient art. Smell it and you will inhale the sweet woody fragrance of Deodar. It is a strong-hardy specimen, perfect for building sturdy homes.

Silver Oak

The silver oak, as the name suggests, assumes a subtle hue of silver at the touch of the sunbeams. Several leaves will be strewn on the ground. When observed closely, one face of the leaf will be coloured a lush green while the other a pale white that shines under sun and water.

Gangaad

Gangaad is an ancient hamlet with a primary school and a temple of Someshwar Maharaj. The temple only remains open in a certain season since the residents believe that the Gods move from one temple to another through different seasons. One of the practices they perform has to do with the sacrificial goat. Every time an individual is leaving the village in pursuit of better prospects and opportunities or when a special occasion arises, a goat is sacrificed and cooked, which is then shared among all the villagers.

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