Ranthan Kharak Trek

The summit attempt starts as early as 2:00 am. You cross the first shoulder in the mountain at dawn. Look out for the far off mountain ranges, divine in the sky's changing colours.  Soon you will be heading towards the second shoulder in the mountain. It gets increasingly cold and the wind bites. The balaclava is a must at this altitude since the early morning breeze is ice cold. This walk of about 4 to 5 hours, is the last leg of the climb – a steep ascent of about 80 degrees on the scree slopes. The entire ascent is on scree from here. It is easy to slip down each time you take a step up. Small steps would be difficult to maintain, so make sure to take large strides to navigate the scree. If you find the last leg of the hike very difficult, be sure to take help from a guide, to avoid a fall.  A four-hour climb leads to the summit.

The view from the top is breathtaking. An astounding 360-degree view of the greater Himalayas is the best reward for the tough climb. One can see the Parang La pass leading to Ladakh, Pin Parvati pass leading to Kullu valley, ranges of Kinnaur, Lahaul and Spiti from the summit. At the back side of the peak is a huge glacier. Kanamo is actually a twin peak with its sister peak, Shila, next to it. Surprisingly, Shila is generally covered with snow, whereas you see only a small patch of snow on the Kanamo summit.

The descent takes about 2.5- 3 hours.

The day starts with the initial trial through the roads and houses of Gogina village for about the first couple of kilometres. You go through the village lanes and cross a small bridge.

Close to 2.2 km from the starting point, the mud trail suddenly takes a sharp dip from the mud trail where a jeep can perhaps go forward. Watch out for this plunge down. It is very easy to miss out and go forward towards another village. There are a couple of huts below the slope to give you an indication. Looking at the GPX file will be helpful if you are trekking on your own to spot this turn. 

The descent is through loose mud and stones. A couple of tricky sections through big rocks and the trail gets into a thin ledge that you need to take. 

The first sight of the Ramganga river is seen towards your right in the gorge and the left-hand side has cliff sections. If the conditions are overcast or raining, be treated with clouds encapsulated in the valley and hanging on the cliff.

After the hut, the descent takes a steeper route through the forest until you reach the Ramganga river. You’ll see a big suspension bridge to cross the river.  The hanging metal bridge is similar to the ones you see in Nepal. It will bring a smile to your face. 

The bridge bobs up and down when you start walking along the centre. If there are heavy rains during your trekking timeline, expect to see a furious Ramganga flowing beneath your feet.

There is a small river, Pouri Rauli joining the Ramganga river. Make a mental mark of this river. You get to see the small streams of the Pouri Rouli on the trek becoming bigger and bigger, eventually joining the main Ramganga river.

From here, the trail takes a very sharp ascent and an altitude gain of more than 1,400 feet climb within a few hours to reach Namik village and slightly further ahead. The trail is well made through the rock-cut steps following a zig-zag pattern on the mountain slope. Your cardio will be tested in this section.

On the trail, you see a small natural cave-like shelter. Make a mental note of this. After the cave, your steep ascent is coming towards the last stage. If it is pouring heavily, enter the cave and wait for the rains to subside. 

Look out for the views on your left. The ariel view of the valley is something to remember at the end of the day. 

Until now trekking through the forest section, you come across the prominent trees of Green Oaks, maple, Ringaals (dwarf bamboos), and chestnut trees. The fragrance of Deodar is strong in the air, however, Rhododendrons are yet to be seen in numbers and one needs to climb up to a higher altitude for this to start. 

Towards the side, you have some lovely ferns and some wild snake berries. Do not mistake for strawberries. Most of the snake berries are not edible and can make you sick if consumed. 

The first sign of the Namik village is through the introduction of the Anganwadi or the Government Primary school for kids from the village. Soon when you start trekking up, you come across a few houses and farmlands. The campsite is about a 1.5 km ascent from here through the village. 

Namik is a very pretty setting with step farming being followed. Most of them grow potatoes, wheat, rajma and pulses or millets according to the season. During the Spring season, you will see them harvesting the crop while in Autumn. The village is spread from bottom to top approach and in steps. It is different compared to Gogina which was spread apart.

Walk through the village and get to see a glimpse of the daily lives of those living here. You can also have friendly conversations and chats which the locals are very much looking forward to having with you. The camping ground is above the village and closer to their temple.

You will cross the Balchan temple arch and also a few initial temples above the village. A few more minutes and you enter a big clearing or ground where the campsite can be set up.

There is a good water source near the campsite. You get a terrace view of the entire village and the valley. Opposite you is the village of Keemu and the Namik glacier on your right-hand side. Take the time to explore around or even spend more time in the village talks.

Today’s trek to Bajimanian Kharak or Baji Kharak (to keep it short) is an easy-moderate climb. The well-laid-out stone trail takes you through a series of forests and clearings. 

Follow the trail. After 250 meters, you come across another clearing with many huts. The setting is very pretty in the morning to turn back and soak in the views. You have cattle grazing on the glades of green grassland with huts spread at irregular intervals.

You now enter the forest section. The tree population consists of maple, oaks and the presence of multiple rhododendron trees. It forms a brilliant canopy just above your heads. If you are trekking during March and April, expect a full bloom of Rhododendrons around you. 

As you hear the leaves crunching beneath your feet, you start hearing the sounds of the stream on your right side approaching closer. Take small steps, enjoy and continue forward with one step at a time.

After a few more minutes into your ascent, you come to a small diversion. It is hardly a diversion until anybody points it out to you. Take the trail that is more prominent towards your right. However, note this particular point. This is the trail connecting to a shortcut on the slope from Thaltok, a col which you go to the next day. This route or path can be used for evacuations purpose from Thaltok to reaching here. 

When you cross about 800 meters from the diversion, you cross a cement bridge. You can fill your water bottles here and take a small break. This is the Pauri Roli stream joining the Ramganga River. A small steep climb comes up next that takes you to the first Kharak on the trek. 

The clearing will leave you awestruck. With fallen logs, tall oak trees and walls of rhododendron trees as boundaries, the Kharak is something you need to feel with your bare feet. Take out your shoes and walk on the grasslands. The locals call this huge clearing Raj Gailgadi.

If you are into birding, then you are in for a treat. From Verditor Flycatchers, woodpeckers, barbets, laughing thrushes and the chirping sounds of the numerous other birds are delightful. 

A few more minutes into the trail, you see 4 to 5 shepherd huts. You can look into how these sustainable huts have been built and the materials used. A lot of thought is put even into how the partitions of the hut have been done and with the fencing of rocks, and mud used.

You can take a few minutes for yourself to explore the Kharak. There is one main oak tree which the locals worship as Golu Devta. There are ribbons and strings attached to this particular tree. The locals believe in the forest spirit which acts as protection for their cattle, and people in this forest region. 

Your next big Kharak, the Parava Thor is about 1 km from here. 

The next section starts with the forest again with one water source in between. A small clearing and covered with trees again. And suddenly, you have the opening of Parava Thor. This meadow is comprised of three layers. The third layer will be the last campsite of the trek. 

Follow the trail further into the forest for another 500 metres to come across the concrete bridge. You are closing into your campsite of Baji Kharak which is a further 400 meters to go. The upper clearing has a few shelter huts and the Balchan Kund towards the South west from the main trail.

Do not miss going to the Balchan kund. Plan to spend sometime during the evening or early morning near the kund. The environment is filled with birds chirping around, sun rays passing through the trees like pillars of light and hitting the pondy marsh. This place holds a special place for a lot of locals who come here to worship and go back to the village.

During the exploration, our team started spotting Monals from this region along with other birds of woodpeckers, flycatchers, warblers and other water birds because of this water body. Even a couple of Yellow martins were seen playing around Balchan kund. So this is a perfect place to have the campsite and explore around.

You are taking the western side of the trail which seems like a U-turn. The trail if taken without a stop can lead you to Munsiyari after many days of trekking (close to 3-4 days more)

The day starts with a gradual ascent on the stone trail with clearings and dwarf rhododendrons throughout the trail. Notice the colour of the flowers changing from red to pink as your climb higher up.

After almost a kilometre of trekking, you come across a clear diversion of the trails. There is one trail going straight and another taking a left turn. The one going straight heads towards the Sursungri Khal Pass which connects to the Munsiyari trail. Shepherds usually take their cattle for grazing here. There is a small indicator with a piece of cloth tied to a rock.

Take the trail on the left. This section feels good on the legs. The trail takes a small dip and evens out on the ledge. 

As you go ahead, you see the grand Thala Kharak grassland. Try to spot white dots in between the grassland and rocky terrain. Shepherds and sheep are usually present in grazings on this meadow. You also see Thal Tok where the U-shaped depression is present. This is the col that one needs to take to reach the Chophu campsite.

The ledge is about a kilometre long before you enter the meadows. There is one concrete settlement before entering the alpine meadows. You can go left, right and soak into the beauty of these meadows. Like other bugyals, your mind will just see this stretching across the horizon.

After about 400 meters of walking on this meadow, you notice the big mountain slopes towering on your right and the path which looks a lot steeper than the previous walk here. You start noticing Juniper shrubs all around you. 

The climb is through a series of switchbacks. The trail zig-zagging its way through the mountain is about 500 meters but feels much more with the ascent. A closer comparison to this climb would be similar to the gateways of entering a Sahyadri fort. The big steps and climb to the top. This ascent however is at much higher altitudes but gives you a similar feeling from inside as you enter the gateway of one high point to another.

Take it slow and one step at a time, especially at the final stretch. 

You now enter Thal Tok, the col on the ridge which acts as a tunnel for winds crossing the mountain slopes. If you remember the shortcut which was mentioned earlier, the trail connects here on the ridge. 

There is one shelter house where you have two rooms. One room can be used by trekkers where wooden planks are present along with the Himalayan Pika (Mountain hares) and the other room is slightly damaged inside. 

If you are trekking on your own, you can think of staying the night here. However, the challenge is finding the water source. There is nothing very close to the shelter house. You need to trek for about 500 meters towards the Northern side where you have a depression of two spurs and water trickling underneath the boulders.

Don't miss on waking up early the next day early in the morning, at around 5 am. The first rays hit the snow-capped mountains of Dangthal, Nanda Devi ranges, Tharkot, Nandakot, Mrigthuni, Maiktoli and other ranges we see. 

The climb from Thal Tok to Chophu campsite is a stiff climb again through a zig-zag trail. The trail if taken completely leads you to Chophu Top. However, the campsite is set up below the shoulder and a diversion from the main trail.

Enjoy the break at Chophu. You have open views of the valley and the entire mountain range in front of you. On a clear day, you get to see the sun setting and hitting the camp. 

If you explore around the campsite and region of Chophu, don't be surprised to see Monals flying around or mountain goats leaping across the mountain tops. It is a true photographer's paradise to capture some amazing shots. 

This day is going to be long and difficult compared to the other few days. The trail is again through a well-defined pathway to Ranthan Top which continues ahead to Sudhamkhan and Nanda Kund. The combination of ridges and ledges is awaiting you today. Watch out for the change in texture and geographical patterns from the previous 2-3 days. 

Start your day as early as possible. Once you finish your breakfast and wind up from the campsite, retrace your steps back on the main trail and the one going up. The trail takes a good ascent as you are blessed with the mountain views.

Chophu Top is about 500 meters of the climb from the campsite and takes close to 15-25 minutes depending on your fitness level. Small groups do camp here at Chophu Top which is at 12,030 feet. However, there is a big scarcity of water sources close to this top.

The path continues in between the boulders and opens you towards a new portal of experience. It is now a ridge walk for a kilometre from Chophu Top until you reach Ranthan Top. Your ascent now increases and the zig-zag pattern welcomes you again. You see Ranthan Top from here while the mountains are getting closer and closer with each step you take.

From the top, the mountain views are majestic ! On the left-hand side, you have all the peaks of Garhwal and towards the right, you have the Kumaon mountain peaks and ranges.

On a clear day, you see the massive peaks on both sides of the valley. Dangthal is standing tall right in front of you along with the other ranges towards your the North which is much closer while the eastern side gives you visuals of the Panchachuli ranges, Rajrambha, and Meneka Peak of the Kumaon mountains. 

The ridge can be further explored for a while which takes a dip towards a pass and then starts to climb up again towards the side of the mountain. 

During the Summer season, you start noticing verglass and snow sections coming up in the next section. You are heading towards the trail on the North Face of the mountain. This is usually in the shadow region and does not get enough sunlight for the winter snow to melt. The ledge covers with snow are a test for even the most experienced and can be a safety hazard. It is better not to pursue ahead in difficult conditions and turn back from the point where it's safe to go. If you are planning for this season, then the start of June may be a good option to think of reaching Nanda Kund.

If you are going during the autumn season and if the weather is good, you can think of going all the way to Nanda Kund which is further 4-5 km from here crossing the fields of Sudhamkhan and then a sharp climb towards Nanda Kund. The campsite would be feasible at Nandakund directly because according to the locals, there are no water sources nearby Sudhamkhan. 

Otherwise, spend some time reflecting on the journey so far and start your plans of returning to the meadows which is a long way down. 

They return until Thal Tok follows the same trail of descent through the ridge and ledge first. Be careful when descending. You are likely to put more weight on the legs while descending. There are also chances of slipping when you have a higher pace. So having two trekking poles on this trek is bliss.

Once you reach Thal Tok, it feels like you are on top of the world looking down at all the different sections that you have taken so far. Recollect on the pocketed clearings you took after Namik, the trail towards Balchan Kund, and further up to reach the meadow. 

We will cut across this section of Thala Kharak meadow and enter through the forest to reach the third clearing from your right which is Parava Thor. This is about 2.5 km from Thal Tok through the forest sections. The trail might not be as prominent compared to the other days. These trails are mostly used by shepherds with their sheep or cattle to take a shorter route up to the meadow. Use the GPX file to check if you are deviating too far from the campsite which is marked. 

Once you reach Parava Thor, the tough part of the trek is already behind you. Beyond Parava Thor, descend gradually through the forest section until you reach Namik village. Cross the stream first and then the Raj Gailgadi clearing. The Namik Village is is a little ahead of your campsite. If you had missed out on exploring the village of Namik earlier, it is a good chance to do so.