Gaumukh Tapovan Trek

I have not stood at the snout of such a gigantic glacier in my life. The Gaumukh glacier snout must be as high as a ten-storey building. Big chunks of ice, as big as cars, continuously fall with thunderous sounds from the mouth of the glacier. I remember the ground reverberating with every fall.

Below, the opening of the glacier was a big cavern, from which the Bhagirathi flowed. I have seen rivers forming from under a glacier. But I have never seen a river, in its full width, flow out from under a glacier, right at its source. It was stunning.

Traversing the glacier from one end to another was fantastically adventure-filled. The surface of the glacier was a maze of crevasses. Some so small that you hardly notice them, some big enough to swallow you whole.

Deep down in some of the big ones, the colour of the ice was green with a bluish tinge on their walls. Rivulets made a channel through them, sometimes disappearing into a dark abyss. It was fascinating seeing this spectacle.

Navigating these crevasses, literally tip-toeing over to the other side, ultimately clambering up to Tapovan, is an adventure that stays with me. It is fun, and frankly, quite adventurous. I admit I had my moments when my palms were sweaty.

a. Mt Shivling
I was expecting Tapovan to be a flat grassland. It wasn’t. It was a bit bouldery, a bit grassy but a very large open land. I remember the moment when we got to Tapovan. Just as we clambered into Tapovan, all my trek mates stood rooted to their spots.

They were witnessing something that they had never seen before. Right in front of them, almost less than a stone’s throw away was the entire Mt Shivling from its base to its summit.

Mt Shivling was no ordinary mountain. It was the most beautiful mountain my trek mates had set their eyes on. Like a beautiful young lady with her slender neck, and her head held high, Mt Shivling stood in front of them with grace and elegance.

I finally understood why photographers travelled from across the globe to take pictures of this majestic mountain.

b. The Bhagirathi sisters
On the other side, right across the Gangotri glacier, we saw the Bhagirathi sisters. The three summits in one massif. I’ll be frank here. Even though Mt Shivling is the Greek God of beautiful mountains, it was the Bhagirathi sisters who held our attention longer.

The three sisters: Bhagirathi I, II and III. All of them nestled together in one isolated massif — and the entire massif standing tall from its base to the summit. You don’t see such mountain views in other parts of the world.

At that moment I understood what it meant to be at Tapovan. I was not witnessing spectacular mountains. I was seeing something utterly unique in mountain views. In trekking circles, if there is a list of grand scenes to see, I would put this view from Tapovan in my top 3.

I love sunrises and sunsets on mountains. Somehow it evokes deep emotions in me. Sometimes when I see a spectacular one, tears well up in my eyes.

So I keep a count of some of the best ones. This is why I mentioned earlier about photographers coming from far and wide to do this trek. Mt Shivling is at such an angle that you get a divine sunrise and sunset on it. They warm the summit in such fascinating colours that it not only lights up the mountain — it kind of makes an already beautiful mountain stunning in its grandness.

In the evening there’s a more spectacular show. With the sunset happening both, on the Bhagirathi sisters as well as Mt Shivling. You don’t know which one to watch! As a sunset lover, it was one of the best sunsets that I saw in my life.