Pir Panjal Lakes Trek
The Grandest Trek in J&K with 10 lakes, 4 meadows and endless jaw-dropping moments
Did you know Brammah Valley in Jammu is still open in Sept & Oct, while all other Kashmir treks are closed?Check out the trek here
TREK DIFFICULTY
Moderate-Difficult
TREK DURATION
7 days
HIGHEST ALTITUDE
13,330 ft
SUITABLE FOR
12 to 62 years
The Grandest Trek in J&K with 10 lakes, 4 meadows and endless jaw-dropping moments
Introduction written by Suhas Saya, Explorer and Documenter at Indiahikes, who completed the trek in August 2023.
“Things are still sinking in for me after what we got to witness on this exploratory trek. I am unable to put words into what we went through in this hidden gem of Jammu and Kashmir.
First, the forest section. I haven't seen any other treks in Kashmir with such dense forests. It's a mix of pine and oak. There were such deafening sounds from cicadas and birds as we walked that we couldn’t hear each other speak. For most of us, this transported us to our Uttarakhand forests.
Next, the alpine lakes. Not 1, 2, or 7, 8. We were lucky to see 14 alpine lakes on this exploratory trek! We didn't even get the chance to walk around all the lakes. They were massive. What was more special were the climbs to the passes, which acted as vantage points to view these lakes. The colours changed from oceanic blue to turquoise to teal. The shapes changed. At every turn, just watching them was a treat.
And then the meadows! Four different meadows over six days. Thera, Paindhari, Kuan and Byad which extends to Sarota. Each was magnificent in its own right. Thera allowed us to camp on a beautiful mound that nobody wanted to leave. Kuan reminded us of the moon-like landscape of Gidara Bugyal. Byad transported us to the sprawling meadows of the Kashmir Great Lakes. The setting of these meadows was something else. Multiple valleys snaked out of the meadows. Streams flowed in abundance. Mountains bordered the meadows like gentle giants. I remember smiling for no reason for an hour and shaking my head in disbelief at what I was seeing.
For all the trekkers in the team, this was by far the best trek they have done till date (including 5 who have done other Kashmir treks). I am still unable to believe what I saw. Having been to the Kashmir Great Lakes and Warwan Valley, two of the grandest treks in Kashmir, I must say they have tough competition."
Introduction written by Suhas Saya, Explorer and Documenter at Indiahikes, who completed the trek in August 2023.
“Things are still sinking in for me after what we got to witness on this exploratory trek. I am unable to put words into what we went through in this hidden gem of Jammu and Kashmir.
Pir Panjal Lakes - Complete Trek Information
We have always wanted trekkers to be well-informed before they go on a Himalayan trek. Knowledge is the difference between a safe trek and a dangerous one. It’s also the difference between a wholesome experience and a superficial experience.
Use this section to learn about the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek. It has in-depth information about each day of the trek, what to expect, and how you need to prepare for it. Many years of expertise have gone into this content. Trekkers find these extremely useful.
Day 1
Drive from Srinagar to Chandimarh
Drive distance: 127 km | Duration: 4 hours | Pick up point for Indiahikes trekkers: Sheikh Feroze Tours & Travels, Sathu, Barbara Shah Chowk, near Flourmill, Srinagar.
We will pick you at 8.00 AM. Have lunch on the way and reach Chandimarh via Behrangala. Cab cost – Rs 7,000 per vehicle (5-6 Seater), to be paid by trekkers directly to the driver. The vehicle will be non-AC.
You will collect your rentals and submit cloakroom on your way to Chandimarh from Indiahikes Base which falls on the way.
Day 2
Trek from Chandimarh to Thera
Trek distance: 7.8 km | Duration: 7-8 hours | Altitude gain: 5,986 ft to 9,357 ft
Day 3
Trek from Thera to Khuan
Trek distance: 9.2 km | Duration: 8-9 hours | Altitude gain: 9,357 ft to 10,900 ft
Day 4
Trek from Khuan to Neelsar
Trek distance: 5.5 km | Duration: 6 hours | Altitude gain: 10,900 ft to 12,170 ft
Day 5
Trek from Neelsar to Chandansar
Trek distance: 7 km | Duration: 8-9 hours | Altitude gain: 12,170 ft to 12,923 ft
Day 6
Trek from Chandansar to Nandansar via Handusar
Trek distance: 9.2 km | Duration: 7-8 hours | Altitude loss: 12,923 ft to 12,313 ft via 13,330 ft
Day 7
Trek from Nandansar to Peer Ki Gali. Drive to Srinagar
Trek distance: 9.6 km | Trek Duration: 6-7 hours | Altitude loss: 12,313 ft to 11,447 ft via 13,727 ft | Drive distance: 125 km | Duration: 4 hours |
Expect to reach Srinagar by 8:00 pm
IMPORTANT POINTS
➤Advisory Note: For all your travel plans include a buffer day to accommodate bad weather on the trek/political instability. This depends completely on the circumstances of the trek and the situation in Kashmir.
➤Documents required: It is mandatory for trekkers to carry a photocopy of their photo id along with the mandatory documents of the Medical Certificate and Disclaimer form. This is required for trek permissions before and during the trek.
➤Stay facility: Please note that you will be staying in tents on all days of the trek. Trekkers need to make their arrangements for a stay in Srinagar on Day 0 and Day 7.
➤Return Journey: Please plan your return no earlier than day 8.
Day 1
Drive from Srinagar to Chandimarh
Drive distance: 127 km | Duration: 4 hours | Pick up point for Indiahikes trekkers: Sheikh Feroze Tours & Travels, Sathu, Barbara Shah Chowk, near Flourmill, Srinagar.
We will pick you at 8.00 AM. Have lunch on the way and reach Chandimarh via Behrangala. Cab cost – Rs 7,000 per vehicle (5-6 Seater), to be paid by trekkers directly to the driver. The vehicle will be non-AC.
You will collect your rentals and submit cloakroom on your way to Chandimarh from Indiahikes Base which falls on the way.
Day 2
Trek from Chandimarh to Thera
Trek distance: 7.8 km | Duration: 7-8 hours | Altitude gain: 5,986 ft to 9,357 ft
Day 3
Trek from Thera to Khuan
Trek distance: 9.2 km | Duration: 8-9 hours | Altitude gain: 9,357 ft to 10,900 ft
Day 4
Trek from Khuan to Neelsar
Trek distance: 5.5 km | Duration: 6 hours | Altitude gain: 10,900 ft to 12,170 ft
Day 5
Trek from Neelsar to Chandansar
Trek distance: 7 km | Duration: 8-9 hours | Altitude gain: 12,170 ft to 12,923 ft
Day 6
Trek from Chandansar to Nandansar via Handusar
Trek distance: 9.2 km | Duration: 7-8 hours | Altitude loss: 12,923 ft to 12,313 ft via 13,330 ft
Day 7
Trek from Nandansar to Peer Ki Gali. Drive to Srinagar
Trek distance: 9.6 km | Trek Duration: 6-7 hours | Altitude loss: 12,313 ft to 11,447 ft via 13,727 ft | Drive distance: 125 km | Duration: 4 hours |
Expect to reach Srinagar by 8:00 pm
IMPORTANT POINTS
➤Advisory Note: For all your travel plans include a buffer day to accommodate bad weather on the trek/political instability. This depends completely on the circumstances of the trek and the situation in Kashmir. ➤Documents required: It is mandatory for trekkers to carry a photocopy of their photo id along with the mandatory documents of the Medical Certificate and Disclaimer form. This is required for trek permissions before and during the trek.
➤Stay facility: Please note that you will be staying in tents on all days of the trek. Trekkers need to make their arrangements for a stay in Srinagar on Day 0 and Day 7. ➤Return Journey: Please plan your return no earlier than day 8.
Day 1: Drive from Srinagar to Chandimarh
Drive distance: 129 km | Duration: 4-5 hours
The drive from Srinagar to Chandimarh takes you through the district of Shopian.
The big highlight of this drive would be travelling via the iconic Mughal road. This ancient route was used by the Mughals to connect the Pakistan Karakoram Valley to the Srinagar Valley. This road crosses the Pir Panjal range and is a treat for your eyes.
The roads are smooth in the Kashmir valley. You can make a quick stop at Peer Bhaba which divides Kashmir and Jammu.
From here, in about 10 minutes on the way, there is an army checkpoint. So make sure you have your ID card handy. Once you cross into the Jammu region, the mountain roads are prone to landslides. So the roads are a bit patchy with holes as you exit the pass.
Chandimarh is your first village once you cross. It has a very small market and is a beautiful place to explore. At the market, one can try the local cuisine of butter chai and the bread of Fulka.
You will be staying the night here in the Tourism Lodge Guest House. This is where you will be meeting the trek leader, and team for the safety check-in and registration process.
If you have more time, you can visit the famous Noori Chamb waterfall (named after the Mughal queen Nur Jahanor and one of the tallest waterfalls of the Poonch region) or take a stroll with the Chath Nalla flowing here at Chandimarh.
Do not worry if you miss going to this waterfall since tomorrow, your trek starts by crossing it.
The drive from Srinagar to Chandimarh takes you through the district of Shopian.
The big highlight of this drive would be travelling via the iconic Mughal road. This ancient route was used by the Mughals to connect the Pakistan Karakoram Valley to the Srinagar Valley. This road crosses the Pir Panjal range and is a treat for your eyes.
The roads are smooth in the Kashmir valley. You can make a quick stop at Peer Bhaba which divides Kashmir and Jammu.
From here, in about 10 minutes on the way, there is an army checkpoint. So make sure you have your ID card handy. Once you cross into the Jammu region, the mountain roads are prone to landslides. So the roads are a bit patchy with holes as you exit the pass.
Chandimarh is your first village once you cross. It has a very small market and is a beautiful place to explore. At the market, one can try the local cuisine of butter chai and the bread of Fulka.
You will be staying the night here in the Tourism Lodge Guest House. This is where you will be meeting the trek leader, and team for the safety check-in and registration process.
If you have more time, you can visit the famous Noori Chamb waterfall (named after the Mughal queen Nur Jahanor and one of the tallest waterfalls of the Poonch region) or take a stroll with the Chath Nalla flowing here at Chandimarh.
Do not worry if you miss going to this waterfall since tomorrow, your trek starts by crossing it.
Day 2: Trek from Chandimarh to Thera
Trek distance: 8 km | Duration: 7-8 hours
Altitude gain: 5,986 ft to 9,357 ft
Trek gradient: Difficult. Day of ascent with a gain of 3,500 feet. Gradual ascent until Cheii village, followed by a combination of steep ascent and again a gradual ascent. The last section to the campsite again has a steep ascent.
The day starts from the Tourism lodge towards the Noori Chmab waterfall.
Take the gradual ascent to reach the roadhead. You will spot a Government school and a little ahead is a 400-year-old Shiva temple. This temple area is usually patrolled by army officials. So having a word with them the previous day and informing them about the team going on the trek helps.
This road leads to a village, which you don't have to go through and can avoid. Take the small gully or the deviation on the right. This takes you directly to the entrance of the forest section, where the mud trail starts.
This day is mostly through dense forest. It is a mixed forest with fir, pine, and oak popping in between. The sounds of Cicadas and crickets are deafening to your ears. Enjoy your walk in these forests and keep continuing your trek.
The trail is a constant, gradual climb. About 3 km into this trail, you come across the last village, known as the Cheii village.
The setting of Cheii village is picturesque. The entire village is built with structures and houses made of mud, and straw. Few houses are scattered, and few are in clusters, this is something unique to witness for trekkers. The villagers here sustain their lives with local produce. Houses have no cylinders in their kitchens, and people use firewood to cook. The villagers are also very warm, and welcoming towards trekkers.
Fill your water bottles before you restart. The trail now takes a steeper ascent through the forest section.
This forest suddenly transforms into a different setting. You now have some oak trees, pines, fir and juniper shrubs around you. This is different vegetation compared to the section before the village. There are sections of this forest that transport you to forest sections in Uttarakhand.
Combined with a few clearings in this forest, you will be lost listening to the birds chirping as you climb for another 2 km.
As you trek through the forest, you are in for a big surprise! End the forest, and the landscape just opens up to the view of a huge green valley. Now you have officially entered the Girjan meadows, with a small temporary dhaba and Peer Bhaba ka shrine located here.
Girjan Meadow is one of the largest meadows in the Poonch region, with green hillocks around you. Reach the top of the hillock on a ridge setting towards your first campsite of Thera.
Towards the left, you can see multiple clusters of stepped Dhoks (Sheperd huts) on a hillock setting, and the other side is daunting with the Pir Panjal ranges. This view is a different world in itself and has multiple opportunities to explore.
Do not miss going to the sunset point, facing towards the left. You can walk barefoot around the lush, soft meadow, and if you get lucky, you get to witness the floating clouds with the sunset in the background.
The day starts from the Tourism lodge towards the Noori Chmab waterfall.
Take the gradual ascent to reach the roadhead. You will spot a Government school and a little ahead is a 400-year-old Shiva temple. This temple area is usually patrolled by army officials. So having a word with them the previous day and informing them about the team going on the trek helps.
This road leads to a village, which you don't have to go through and can avoid. Take the small gully or the deviation on the right. This takes you directly to the entrance of the forest section, where the mud trail starts.
This day is mostly through dense forest. It is a mixed forest with fir, pine, and oak popping in between. The sounds of Cicadas and crickets are deafening to your ears. Enjoy your walk in these forests and keep continuing your trek.
The trail is a constant, gradual climb. About 3 km into this trail, you come across the last village, known as the Cheii village.
The setting of Cheii village is picturesque. The entire village is built with structures and houses made of mud, and straw. Few houses are scattered, and few are in clusters, this is something unique to witness for trekkers. The villagers here sustain their lives with local produce. Houses have no cylinders in their kitchens, and people use firewood to cook. The villagers are also very warm, and welcoming towards trekkers.
Fill your water bottles before you restart. The trail now takes a steeper ascent through the forest section.
This forest suddenly transforms into a different setting. You now have some oak trees, pines, fir and juniper shrubs around you. This is different vegetation compared to the section before the village. There are sections of this forest that transport you to forest sections in Uttarakhand.
Combined with a few clearings in this forest, you will be lost listening to the birds chirping as you climb for another 2 km.
As you trek through the forest, you are in for a big surprise! End the forest, and the landscape just opens up to the view of a huge green valley. Now you have officially entered the Girjan meadows, with a small temporary dhaba and Peer Bhaba ka shrine located here.
Girjan Meadow is one of the largest meadows in the Poonch region, with green hillocks around you. Reach the top of the hillock on a ridge setting towards your first campsite of Thera.
Towards the left, you can see multiple clusters of stepped Dhoks (Sheperd huts) on a hillock setting, and the other side is daunting with the Pir Panjal ranges. This view is a different world in itself and has multiple opportunities to explore.
Do not miss going to the sunset point, facing towards the left. You can walk barefoot around the lush, soft meadow, and if you get lucky, you get to witness the floating clouds with the sunset in the background.
Day 3: Trek from Thera to Khuan
Trek distance: 9.2 km | Duration: 8-9 hours
Altitude gain: 9,357 ft to 10,900 ft
Trek gradient: Moderate. Initial steep climb to reach the forest section and then taking the ledge and ridge. Gradual ascent for 2.5 km to reach Panjdhari army camp. Flat walk to reach Khuan
Today’s trek goes further into the Girjan meadows. Even though it is the same connecting meadow, the landscape changes and brings one surprise after another as you keep going higher in this meadow region.
The day starts with a small ascent from the Thera campsite to the forest section.
This forest has pine trees and oaks bordering it. Look out for the butterflies fluttering around and the chirping of birds. You will be amazed to see how the forest ends and Bada Thera starts immediately. It is about an hour away from the campsite to this meadow section of Bada Thera.
You can roll around this meadow, walk barefoot, and take a good rest over here. You get the panoramic view of the Pir Panjal at the viewpoint of Bada Tera. This is also the place where you can fill water bottles.
Ascend from Bada Thera to reach the top with a zig-zag walk. Form the top, you get to see the entire view of the forest that you crossed, the river, valley, Bada Tera, Dhok and the previous campsite.
From here, you next approach the last forest section with a ledge walk on the mountain slope. This would be the last of the forests for the next few days. This forest is a mix of gradual ascent and descent. Most of the time, thick mist engulfs the whole mountain as you climb up and down the ledges. It almost transports you towards the North East (setting similar to Sandakphu or Goechala trek). So make the best use of this forest and enjoy this section before entering a tiny ridge.
The ridge now opens up views of both sides of the valley, including the Pir Panjal mountain and the Tathakuti peak. After about an hour of your trek, you come to the meadows of Paindhari. You have an army camp and helipad located at this location of vast openness. The team will have their ID cards checked.
Panjdhari or Paindhari as the locals call it, is where the expansive meadow starts and the forest section ends. You are just 2 km away from the second campsite in Khuan. All your efforts of ascent through the forest and ridge climb just vanish away from here. You are treated to a flat walk and a reward that was awaiting you.
The meadows of Kuan are a cauldron between the valley folds of the surrounding mountains. There are multiple Dhoks here which the shepherds use to bring their cattle and graze in this vast expanse.
Khuan campsite is again a great place for explorers. One section of Khuan has a boulder patch, while the rest is a complete green meadow. One can go and just lie down or sit, read a book beside the flowing stream, or run around to explore the Dhoks.
Today’s trek goes further into the Girjan meadows. Even though it is the same connecting meadow, the landscape changes and brings one surprise after another as you keep going higher in this meadow region.
The day starts with a small ascent from the Thera campsite to the forest section.
This forest has pine trees and oaks bordering it. Look out for the butterflies fluttering around and the chirping of birds. You will be amazed to see how the forest ends and Bada Thera starts immediately. It is about an hour away from the campsite to this meadow section of Bada Thera.
You can roll around this meadow, walk barefoot, and take a good rest over here. You get the panoramic view of the Pir Panjal at the viewpoint of Bada Tera. This is also the place where you can fill water bottles.
Ascend from Bada Thera to reach the top with a zig-zag walk. Form the top, you get to see the entire view of the forest that you crossed, the river, valley, Bada Tera, Dhok and the previous campsite.
From here, you next approach the last forest section with a ledge walk on the mountain slope. This would be the last of the forests for the next few days. This forest is a mix of gradual ascent and descent. Most of the time, thick mist engulfs the whole mountain as you climb up and down the ledges. It almost transports you towards the North East (setting similar to Sandakphu or Goechala trek). So make the best use of this forest and enjoy this section before entering a tiny ridge.
The ridge now opens up views of both sides of the valley, including the Pir Panjal mountain and the Tathakuti peak. After about an hour of your trek, you come to the meadows of Paindhari. You have an army camp and helipad located at this location of vast openness. The team will have their ID cards checked.
Panjdhari or Paindhari as the locals call it, is where the expansive meadow starts and the forest section ends. You are just 2 km away from the second campsite in Khuan. All your efforts of ascent through the forest and ridge climb just vanish away from here. You are treated to a flat walk and a reward that was awaiting you.
The meadows of Kuan are a cauldron between the valley folds of the surrounding mountains. There are multiple Dhoks here which the shepherds use to bring their cattle and graze in this vast expanse.
Khuan campsite is again a great place for explorers. One section of Khuan has a boulder patch, while the rest is a complete green meadow. One can go and just lie down or sit, read a book beside the flowing stream, or run around to explore the Dhoks.
Day 4: Trek from Khuan to Neelsar
Trek distance: 5.5 km | Duration: 6 hours
Altitude gain: 10,900 ft to 12,170 ft
Trek gradient: Easy-Moderate. Descent from Kuan meadows and then a steep ascent towards Byaad meadows. Gradual ascent until the clearing and reaching the lake of Neelsar
Today is perhaps the most anticipated day for trekkers. You trek to see the first alpine lake of Neelsar and camp close to this charming lake.
The day starts with a climb from the Khuan campsite to reach the opening of the col. Keep your eyes open for Griffons flying above you. From here, you need to take the trail going towards the left, with a slight descent. Notice a Dhok below.
Take this trail for about 20 minutes, and you will have a small stream to cross. Trekkers need to navigate and traverse multiple small patches of boulders. Be careful of this stretch. This section is prone to rockfall and landslides.
Cross this, and then the ascent starts again. The ascent takes an hour to reach the top.
Don't forget to turn back and see the view every now and then. You have the view of Khuan, the meadows, and the valley of Panjdhari.
Once you finish the ascent, you are in for a treat! You would not have imagined seeing Byad meadows and a setting that you have never seen before. The meadows of Byad are completely different from Thera or Khuan. A green therapy to your eyes, and the carpet just spreads as much as your eyes can see. Take a breather here.
Walk along the meadows of Byad until you reach the boulder zone. Your zig-zag climb for about an hour next goes around the mountain to reach the lake of Neelsar.
All the efforts taken until now just disappear when you get the first glimpse of Neelsar. You are beginning to think about which side you would want to explore first, or just dip your feet in the cold waters of the lake.
You have the rest of the day to visit the lakes of Neelsar II, Neelsar III, Dingsar, and Gumsar.
Today is perhaps the most anticipated day for trekkers. You trek to see the first alpine lake of Neelsar and camp close to this charming lake.
The day starts with a climb from the Khuan campsite to reach the opening of the col. Keep your eyes open for Griffons flying above you. From here, you need to take the trail going towards the left, with a slight descent. Notice a Dhok below.
Take this trail for about 20 minutes, and you will have a small stream to cross. Trekkers need to navigate and traverse multiple small patches of boulders. Be careful of this stretch. This section is prone to rockfall and landslides.
Cross this, and then the ascent starts again. The ascent takes an hour to reach the top.
Don't forget to turn back and see the view every now and then. You have the view of Khuan, the meadows, and the valley of Panjdhari.
Once you finish the ascent, you are in for a treat! You would not have imagined seeing Byad meadows and a setting that you have never seen before. The meadows of Byad are completely different from Thera or Khuan. A green therapy to your eyes, and the carpet just spreads as much as your eyes can see. Take a breather here.
Walk along the meadows of Byad until you reach the boulder zone. Your zig-zag climb for about an hour next goes around the mountain to reach the lake of Neelsar.
All the efforts taken until now just disappear when you get the first glimpse of Neelsar. You are beginning to think about which side you would want to explore first, or just dip your feet in the cold waters of the lake.
You have the rest of the day to visit the lakes of Neelsar II, Neelsar III, Dingsar, and Gumsar.
Day 5: Trek from Neelsar to Chandansar
Trek distance: 7 km | Duration: 8-9 hours
Altitude gain: 12,170 ft to 12,923 ft
Trek gradient: Moderate-Difficult. Rocky and bouldery terrain near the lakes and meadows in between, with a few stream crossings when crossing the Kaldachni Pass
The day starts with the climb to Kaldachni Pass. Trekkers have to cross this pass and then head towards Nandansar through a field of boulders.
There is no clearly marked trail from Neelsar to the pass. This climb to Kaldachni Pass will test the cardio and legs of the entire team. As you keep gaining altitude, keep looking back at the campsite location and the lakes. With every turn, the colors of these lakes change.
The ascent takes about an hour to reach the viewpoint, with Katorisar getting bigger in front of you. From this point, your climb takes a turn to the left. You see two big rocks at the end of the horizon to denote Kaldachni Pass.
Take a few minutes of rest and hydrate yourself well. The next ascent takes you along the side of the slope of the mountain. Along with the vastness and the grand views, do keep your eyes open on the ground when trekking as well. You will be surprised to see tiny insects springing above, beetles wriggling around, and even a few pink grasshoppers hopping!
With minimum breaks, it takes another hour to reach the top of the pass.
The view from Kaldachni Pass is mesmerizing. You have five lakes behind you in 180 degrees, while in front you have the lakes of Nandansar and Kaldachni. This view of the seven alpine lakes from the top is worth all the effort.
If you are lucky with the drama of the clouds and sun, then you are in for a treat. Drop your backpacks and spend about half an hour here. Nandansar is just in front of you, and the descent starts next.
Towards the left of the trail is the moraine section. The mountainside has a lot of boulders and is a rocky section. And towards the right, is the view of the valley, meadows, and a flatter walk.
Soak into the views, click your photos, and then start your descent towards the lake of Kaldachni. Once you reach Kaldachni, the next challenge is the stretch of boulder field that you need to tackle. Be careful with your footing. Stepping with confidence and being nimble helps in tackling this stretch.
Nandansar is hidden and cannot be seen before the climb. Nandansar is one of the biggest lakes in this region. It is about 1 km long. However, around 200 meters before the lake is a short climb to reach the lake.
There are many folklore stories about the seven lakes and them being considered as supernatural powers. So taking a dip in any of these lakes is not allowed. Many folks from the village do visit Nandansar to offer their prayers.
Trekkers will have to trek along the glades of Nandansar, filled with boulders and rocks. While you enjoy getting enthralled with the setting of the mountains surrounding the lake, keep your eyes fixed on where you are stepping and navigating.
As you reach the exit point of the lake, you will be stunned to see the change in the backdrop again. The colors in various shades of pink, purple, and maroon set amidst the stark and deserted mountains transport you to Spiti or a setting in Lahaul. Walking with disbelief, you need to descend towards the stream where you will be camping in this same valley the next day.
Reach down towards the stream and find a spot where you can cross safely. From this spot, you have the final ascent for the day. It takes about 3 km of ascent to reach the lake of Chandansar. You will be camping on the other side of the lake, where you have a flowing water source for setting up the campsite.
The day starts with the climb to Kaldachni Pass. Trekkers have to cross this pass and then head towards Nandansar through a field of boulders.
There is no clearly marked trail from Neelsar to the pass. This climb to Kaldachni Pass will test the cardio and legs of the entire team. As you keep gaining altitude, keep looking back at the campsite location and the lakes. With every turn, the colors of these lakes change.
The ascent takes about an hour to reach the viewpoint, with Katorisar getting bigger in front of you. From this point, your climb takes a turn to the left. You see two big rocks at the end of the horizon to denote Kaldachni Pass.
Take a few minutes of rest and hydrate yourself well. The next ascent takes you along the side of the slope of the mountain. Along with the vastness and the grand views, do keep your eyes open on the ground when trekking as well. You will be surprised to see tiny insects springing above, beetles wriggling around, and even a few pink grasshoppers hopping!
With minimum breaks, it takes another hour to reach the top of the pass.
The view from Kaldachni Pass is mesmerizing. You have five lakes behind you in 180 degrees, while in front you have the lakes of Nandansar and Kaldachni. This view of the seven alpine lakes from the top is worth all the effort.
If you are lucky with the drama of the clouds and sun, then you are in for a treat. Drop your backpacks and spend about half an hour here. Nandansar is just in front of you, and the descent starts next.
Towards the left of the trail is the moraine section. The mountainside has a lot of boulders and is a rocky section. And towards the right, is the view of the valley, meadows, and a flatter walk.
Soak into the views, click your photos, and then start your descent towards the lake of Kaldachni. Once you reach Kaldachni, the next challenge is the stretch of boulder field that you need to tackle. Be careful with your footing. Stepping with confidence and being nimble helps in tackling this stretch.
Nandansar is hidden and cannot be seen before the climb. Nandansar is one of the biggest lakes in this region. It is about 1 km long. However, around 200 meters before the lake is a short climb to reach the lake.
There are many folklore stories about the seven lakes and them being considered as supernatural powers. So taking a dip in any of these lakes is not allowed. Many folks from the village do visit Nandansar to offer their prayers.
Trekkers will have to trek along the glades of Nandansar, filled with boulders and rocks. While you enjoy getting enthralled with the setting of the mountains surrounding the lake, keep your eyes fixed on where you are stepping and navigating.
As you reach the exit point of the lake, you will be stunned to see the change in the backdrop again. The colors in various shades of pink, purple, and maroon set amidst the stark and deserted mountains transport you to Spiti or a setting in Lahaul. Walking with disbelief, you need to descend towards the stream where you will be camping in this same valley the next day.
Reach down towards the stream and find a spot where you can cross safely. From this spot, you have the final ascent for the day. It takes about 3 km of ascent to reach the lake of Chandansar. You will be camping on the other side of the lake, where you have a flowing water source for setting up the campsite.
Day 6: Trek from Chandansar to Nandansar via Handusar
Trek distance: 9.2 km | Duration: 7-8 hours
Altitude loss: 12,923 ft to 12,313 ft via 13,330 ft
Trek gradient: Moderate-Difficult. Challenging section of reaching the top of the Khabi ki Gali pass and descending through the same trail.
The day starts with a climb to the second pass of the trek, Khabi ki Gali. Even though this pass is much shorter compared to the previous day, the pass crossing itself will be more challenging. Trekkers will have to tackle boulders to reach the pass and go towards Laksukhsar. During the beginning of the season, you can expect patches of snow or the pass to be covered with snow.
The good news is that you don't have to carry your entire backpack with you today. Take your daypack with all the essentials since you will be returning from Handusar and pick up your backpack to descend towards Nandansar on the return journey.
You can divide the pass crossing into two sections. The initial section is fairly easy through the trail, going through loose mud and gravel. However, you can still get a decent grip and push forward. It takes about 20 minutes to complete this. Once you are done with this section, you arrive at a flatish area with unique formations on the land. Have your eyes on the lookout near the cliffs on your left. A flock of Griffons keeps swaying and swooping in circles.
The next section of the trail will be challenging. With a consistent pace, you should be able to climb to the top of the pass in about an hour’s time. There is no marked trail, and the team will have to make their own trail through big boulders and loose rocks. Try not to stop for too long or take multiple breaks.
Khabi Ki Gali is at around 13,330 feet and is a flat pass. Once you reach the pass, all your efforts will be rewarded with the view of Laksukhsar, which is in the shape of the number 8. A huge lake right in front of you, glittering with different shades of blue. It changes from oceanic blue to teal, aquamarine, and turquoise. Colors you would not have even imagined. Take your break here by looking at this beauty while you reflect on being one of the few in the world to witness something like this.
Once you are done spending good time, you next start noticing another lake. This would be Handusar. Reaching the tip of Handusar is about 2 km and takes about an hour. By this time, you have already seen 10 alpine lakes.
During our exploration, we found two more lakes close by - Baranisar and Sonasar. However, exploring this will require at least 4-5 hours and cannot be included in the itinerary. You can plan this if you are doing the trek on your own.
Fun fact: There are a couple of passes from Handusar towards Byad via Sarota. One takes you through Bagsar, which is the biggest lake in this entire region, while the other pass is known as Handu ki Gali. Both of these passes are risky and very difficult to attempt.
Once you are done exploring Handusar, you can now plan your return, taking the same trail to Chandansar and then finally heading down towards the valley of Nandansar to camp for the night. Do not miss coming out of your tents in the night to witness the Milky Way in full glory.
The day starts with a climb to the second pass of the trek, Khabi ki Gali. Even though this pass is much shorter compared to the previous day, the pass crossing itself will be more challenging. Trekkers will have to tackle boulders to reach the pass and go towards Laksukhsar. During the beginning of the season, you can expect patches of snow or the pass to be covered with snow.
The good news is that you don't have to carry your entire backpack with you today. Take your daypack with all the essentials since you will be returning from Handusar and pick up your backpack to descend towards Nandansar on the return journey.
You can divide the pass crossing into two sections. The initial section is fairly easy through the trail, going through loose mud and gravel. However, you can still get a decent grip and push forward. It takes about 20 minutes to complete this. Once you are done with this section, you arrive at a flatish area with unique formations on the land. Have your eyes on the lookout near the cliffs on your left. A flock of Griffons keeps swaying and swooping in circles.
The next section of the trail will be challenging. With a consistent pace, you should be able to climb to the top of the pass in about an hour’s time. There is no marked trail, and the team will have to make their own trail through big boulders and loose rocks. Try not to stop for too long or take multiple breaks.
Khabi Ki Gali is at around 13,330 feet and is a flat pass. Once you reach the pass, all your efforts will be rewarded with the view of Laksukhsar, which is in the shape of the number 8. A huge lake right in front of you, glittering with different shades of blue. It changes from oceanic blue to teal, aquamarine, and turquoise. Colors you would not have even imagined. Take your break here by looking at this beauty while you reflect on being one of the few in the world to witness something like this.
Once you are done spending good time, you next start noticing another lake. This would be Handusar. Reaching the tip of Handusar is about 2 km and takes about an hour. By this time, you have already seen 10 alpine lakes.
During our exploration, we found two more lakes close by - Baranisar and Sonasar. However, exploring this will require at least 4-5 hours and cannot be included in the itinerary. You can plan this if you are doing the trek on your own.
Fun fact: There are a couple of passes from Handusar towards Byad via Sarota. One takes you through Bagsar, which is the biggest lake in this entire region, while the other pass is known as Handu ki Gali. Both of these passes are risky and very difficult to attempt.
Once you are done exploring Handusar, you can now plan your return, taking the same trail to Chandansar and then finally heading down towards the valley of Nandansar to camp for the night. Do not miss coming out of your tents in the night to witness the Milky Way in full glory.
Day 7: Trek from Nandansar to Peer Ki Gali. Drive to Srinagar
Trek distance: 16 km | Duration: 8 hours
Altitude loss: 10,664 ft to 9,368 ft
This is your last day of the trek. The trek starts by following the valley where we are camping and then taking the ascent towards the left flank of the mountain. The climb from the campsite to the pass involves gaining an altitude of 1,135 feet and covering a distance of 2.7 km in total.
When you reach about a kilometer and a half, you see a small lake called Kalasar. From here, the trail is a rolling terrain of gradual ascent and descent.
The ascent from the base gets steeper towards the pass. However, the trail is fairly well laid out through most of the section and easy for the team to manage compared to the previous two days.
Your right side is a complete open section, while the left side is the mountain side as you traverse the ledge. As you keep ascending, do look back and see the view of the Nandansar Valley and the mountains towering near Nandansar. Slowly, you approach the top and go towards the other side of the mountain.
The descent from the pass to Peer Ki Gali will be a combination of meadows and a few sections along the ledge of the mountain. It is a beautiful setting. The trail now starts with the meadow until you reach a small stream crossing with a bit of boulders to cross. You can expect to negotiate through a bit of snow in this section during the beginning of July and the start of the season.
As you keep trekking further through the meadows, your eyes start noticing Dhoks and civilization coming closer with electric poles and wires in the air. You are now very close to Peer Ki Gali, where you meet the roadhead and the point where you can take your vehicle.
You are expected to reach Srinagar by 8 pm. So plan to take a flight the next day, preferably in the afternoon, to account for any delay or to give yourself enough buffer. The cost will be Rs 7,000 per cab (5-6 Seater)
This is your last day of the trek. The trek starts by following the valley where we are camping and then taking the ascent towards the left flank of the mountain. The climb from the campsite to the pass involves gaining an altitude of 1,135 feet and covering a distance of 2.7 km in total.
When you reach about a kilometer and a half, you see a small lake called Kalasar. From here, the trail is a rolling terrain of gradual ascent and descent.
The ascent from the base gets steeper towards the pass. However, the trail is fairly well laid out through most of the section and easy for the team to manage compared to the previous two days.
Your right side is a complete open section, while the left side is the mountain side as you traverse the ledge. As you keep ascending, do look back and see the view of the Nandansar Valley and the mountains towering near Nandansar. Slowly, you approach the top and go towards the other side of the mountain.
The descent from the pass to Peer Ki Gali will be a combination of meadows and a few sections along the ledge of the mountain. It is a beautiful setting. The trail now starts with the meadow until you reach a small stream crossing with a bit of boulders to cross. You can expect to negotiate through a bit of snow in this section during the beginning of July and the start of the season.
As you keep trekking further through the meadows, your eyes start noticing Dhoks and civilization coming closer with electric poles and wires in the air. You are now very close to Peer Ki Gali, where you meet the roadhead and the point where you can take your vehicle.
You are expected to reach Srinagar by 8 pm. So plan to take a flight the next day, preferably in the afternoon, to account for any delay or to give yourself enough buffer. The cost will be Rs 7,000 per cab (5-6 Seater)
Moderate - Difficult
The Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, which climbs to almost 13,330 ft, is rated as Moderate-Difficult
We mark the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek as Moderate-Difficult for a few reasons:
This is because even though the highest altitude is not too high, you gain the altitude pretty quickly starting from Chandimarh. This is not easy. You gain this altitude in a relatively shorter distance. That means it’s quite a climb on the first day. On each day, you gain around 2,500 ft - 3,000 ft. This means you have some steep climbs. For example, on the very first day you gain an altitude of 3,500 ft. Because of the quick altitude gain, there are possibilities of AMS.
The trek also has multiple ascents and descents. You need to cross three passes on this Pir Panjal Lakes trek. The climb to the lake and the descent back are steep. The trek has long-distances to be covered every day: you cover on average 8-9 km each day and 52 km in a span of 6 days. That means, on average, you cover 9-10 km every day.
That's doable in a well-paced itinerary, like the one we follow for the Pir Panjal Lakestrek at Indiahikes. The key is to pace it out and let your body get acclimatized to the higher altitude.
Apart from the distance and altitude, the terrain also plays a role in making it a moderate-difficult trek. On this trek, you need to navigate and traverse boulder sections. These boulders are a blend of big and small ones to tackle on the trail. Ascent to the lakes is full of boulders and can be taxing on your legs. It becomes trickier if it rains. Wearing good quality trekking shoes with a great grip really helps here. (For details read: How To Choose The Best Trekking Shoes In India)
But the trek has easier exits and there are less technical sections.
If you cut short the itinerary, say skip camping at one of the campsites , then you are exposed to the risk of AMS. In such a situation, be very cautious for any discomfort in your body which may point to AMS. We will talk about this in detail in the next section.
Apart from AMS, be careful during the steep ascent and descent to and from Nandansar. It is long and tricky if you are descending during the rains or if there is whiteout on the trek. Wearing good quality trekking shoes with a great grip really helps here. (For details read: How To Choose The Best Trekking Shoes In India)
While the Pir Panjal Lakes trek remains untouched during times of unrest, getting to the base camp involves travelling through populated route like Mughal Road.
On your drive to Chandimarh, be mindful of where you are going, how you are travelling and if your mode of transport is reliable.
|Thumb Rule: Stay cued into the news. Be curious about what’s happening around you. Keep a check on areas that are flagged red. Check if the transport is getting affected and be forthcoming on enquiring about alternate routes.
Be aware, but do not worry or panic. Stay calm and keep the following pointers in mind when you are travelling:
- If you’re staying overnight at Srinagar, stay in touristy areas like Dal Lake or Lal Chowk.
- Blend in with the crowd in terms of dressing and behaviour.
- Avoid going to downtown areas. Stick to tourist spaces as they tend to be safer and well-protected during times of unrest.
- Don’t panic if there is a curfew. Keep calm and wait for it to pass.
When you are exposed to trekking in the high altitudes, your body might not be well rested or acclimatised to the altitude. There are always risks of AMS even for the fittest and the most experienced trekkers. It is very important that you pay close attention to your body and the symptoms on a high altitude trek. Stay alert for any signs of altitude sickness.
Attend to your uneasiness and take curative measures. Check your vitals before you start the trek - Your BP reading, oxygen saturation levels at every campsite at least twice. If you are feeling uneasy, you can even go on a curative course of Diamox. Hydration and rest is very important as well. If you do not feel normal after a few hours or overnight, do not proceed further on the trek.
To help you understand AMS better, we've put together a complete guide about it. This is a series a videos you must watch before you get onto any high altitude trek:
- What Is Altitude sickness? A Quick Look At AMS, HAPE And HACE
- How To Treat Altitude Sickness – AMS, HAPE, & HACE
- How To Prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), HAPE and HACE
- 3 Life Saving Drugs You MUST Have To Tackle Altitude Sickness – AMS, HAPE and HACE
If you experience any symptoms of AMS, even in the slightest, start taking steps to treat the sickness.
At Indiahikes, our Trek Leaders are trained and equipped to take care of any emergencies related to AMS.
Medical Emergencies can strike on any trek. The key to dealing with them lies in knowing your exit points. Know how to get out and reach the nearest hospital quickly.
On the Pir Panjal Lakes trek, your best bet is to descend to Chandimarh or Pir ki Galli.
In case of a medical emergency, the closest hospital is at Surankot. It's a Sub District Hospital, 18 km from the basecamp .
The best time to do the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek is from the end-June to start of September. It is the traditional monsoon season in the rest of the Indian subcontinent, but things are different in the Jammu and Kashmir Valley.
Jammu receives mild rainfall in monsoon. Not at all like in Himachal Pradesh or Uttarakhand. That's because of the Pir Panjal range which prevents most rain clouds from reaching the valley.
It’s a boon because it makes for a comfortable trekking experience. In all the other seasons, it’s too cold to trek, the trail and the meadows are buried under snow for the most part.
But even if we look at just one season, the Pir Panjal Lakestrek changes appearance and colour throughout - June, July, August and September.
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek between end-June and mid-July
Day time temperature: Between 19 °C and 24 °C | Night time temperature: Between 3 °C and 5 °C
Presence of snow: Trekking opens on the Pir Panjal Lakes trail in the mid of June. Until then the upper reaches are under heavy snow. The lower meadows open earlier.
No. of warm layers required: 3-4 warm layers
When you trek in end of June and early July, you can expect to see remnants of snow by the highest lake on the trek - Nandansar. You may even see melting ice floating in the lake. This setting offers a fleeting glimpse of what the landscape looks like for the rest of the year - buried under snow, punctuated with frozen lakes. Sometimes, even if it’s not the best phase to complete the trek, the sight is spellbinding.
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek from mid-July to the start of Sept
Day time temperature: Between 20 °C and 25 °C | Night time temperature: Between 2 °C and 4 °C
Presence of snow: Now, the snow has almost melted. And the trail is carpeted with bright green meadows, which are in contrast with the rugged, grey mountains rising at the fringes. The best part is, that these meadows are densely dotted with so many wildflowers! Rains -- more like evening showers -- pick up during this time.
No. of warm layers required: 3-4 warm layers
After mid-July, the Pir Panjal Lakestrek starts revealing itself in full glory.
You experience this beauty, especially in the meadows, as you trek over tiny flowers of colors ranging from violet, and purple to yellow and white.
Frozen chunks of the alpine lakes have melted by now. Waters of Pir Panjal Lake are deep blue. Look at these lakes from the vantage point, it has this signature royal-blue shade that you see in most of the Kashmir treks’ photos.
Cold sets in as the season progresses to the end of August and the start of September. The evening showers become frequent. But when the clouds part during this time of the year, you witness brilliant blue skies. Their reflection deepens the blue of the alpine lakes, especially Nandansar and Laksukhsar.
You will also see a change in the colour of the meadows. They turn golden brown.
The grass no longer retains the soft, fresh green tinge. The flowers wilt too. And yet, there’s a beauty to this change of tone.
You can do this trek until the start of September. So, it’s doable. Post mid of September, it may not be the most comfortable time, given the cold temperatures.After mid-July, the Pir Panjal Lakes trek starts revealing itself in full glory.
You experience this beauty, especially in the meadows, as you trek over tiny flowers of colors ranging from violet, and purple to yellow and white.
Frozen chunks of the alpine lakes have melted by now. Waters of Pir Panjal Lakes are deep blue. Look at these lakes from the vantage point, it has this signature royal-blue shade that you see in most of the Kashmir treks’ photos.
It is great to see you going on the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, one of the most beautiful treks in India. While it is a great trek to do, you need to get your travel plan worked out perfectly.
Here is a step-by-step guide on what to do next. Use this guide and nothing else to plan your travel.
There are two ways to reach Behrangala, the base of the trek - either from Srinagar or from Jammu.
Traveling from Srinagar is a better option.
Indiahikes pick-up is also arranged from Srinagar. So, if you are choosing our pick up, then you will have to reach Srinagar on your own.
Planning your onward flight/train journey:
If you are traveling from Bengaluru, Chennai, Pune, Mumbai or any other city, book your air tickets for Day Zero, the day before Day 1 on the itinerary. If your trek start day is 24 July, book your air tickets for 23 July to Srinagar.
Fly directly to Srinagar
We recommend this. It gives you an added rest day at Srinagar or even better if you can head towards Behrangala.
If you are taking the pickup through Indiahikes, then your Experience Coordinator will share the details a week prior to your trek date.
However, if you intend to take an adventure of traveling on your own, then you can go through the details given below:
From Lal Chowk, Srinagar there are frequent shared taxis available to Poonch. You will have to get down at Behrangala on the way. It costs Rs 800 per person.
Reaching Behrangala from Jammu
Reach Jammu a day before the start date of your trek.
There are shared Taxis from Jammu, from the City land Travel Stand to Poonch. The cost per person is ₹800 per person.
From Poonch, you will have to take another shared taxi to reach Behramgala. However this is a much longer route and can take about 6-8 hrs to reach Behramgala.
Planning your hotel/stay
Hotel Options at Srinagar
Hotel Chinar Inn is one option. It has clean rooms with good amenities.
If you are trekking with Indiahikes, the cost will be Rs 1,500 per person for a stay and meals (dinner and breakfast). This is for a twin sharing room.
For a single person per room, it costs Rs 2,300 per person for a stay and meals (dinner and breakfast)
Location: https://goo.gl/maps/5V3CgXgAyD2biGcK6
Contact Number: 7006608852 (Firoz)
Royal Athena Houseboats is another option. In addition to good amenities, it gives you the experience of staying in a boathouse.
If you are trekking with Indiahikes, the cost will be Rs 1,750 per person including dinner and breakfast.
Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Zq4BCzTGuBGzawP18
Contact Number: 7006608852 (Firoz)
Alhamra Retreats is a guest house with good facilities available.
If you are trekking with Indiahikes, the cost of a twin-sharing room is Rs 2,100. For an extra bed in the same room, it costs Rs 700 extra. Triple sharing is Rs 2,800 and four sharing is Rs 3,500.
Location: https://goo.gl/maps/6DCEkw7k7gDGwM449
Contact Number: +91 95965 56700 (Rehan Bakshi)
Other hotel options that are close to the pick-up point:
Hotel Care is just next to our Base, the pick-up location of the trek. Hotel Adlife and Hotel Centre Point are two other recommendations
Hotel Options at Jammu
Hotel Lords Inn is one of the options where you can stay in Jammu. You can easily find other options online. But make sure you book a hotel near to the Taxi Stand.
Given below is a list of all the gear you need for the Pir Panjal lakes trek:
If you don’t have certain items, you can rent high-quality gear like trekking shoes, backpacks, and jackets from the Crosstrek Rental Store by Indiahikes. It costs less than Rs 2000 for the entire trek. We highly recommend renting gear since it is both more affordable and environmentally friendly.
Additionally, you’ll notice a small medical kit in the list. While our trek leaders carry medical kits with 17 medicines including life-saving drugs, you must bring your personal medical kit as well. We are already equipped with BP machines, oximeters and canned oxygen, but your medical kit is for quick access to you, especially while travelling.
Most importantly, you must digitally upload and carry mandatory documents to get government permits for the trek - your ID card, medical certificate, and disclaimer certificate. Keep them in a plastic bag to keep them safe in your backpack. There are no printing or photocopy facilities at the basecamp.
1. Trekking Shoes:
Pir Panjal Lakes trek requires sturdy trekking shoes, has good grip, has ankle support, and can handle snow. Here is a quick video on how to choose your trekking shoes.
| Buying Tip: The Trek series and MH series are good options by Decathlon. They are tried and tested. There isn’t any necessity to buy the higher-priced models. Here is a list of other budget shoes that trekkers are using.
| Rental: We have the Trek series and the MH series are available for rent from the Crosstrek Rental store. They are already broken into and in good condition. Rental shoes are not dirty or unhygienic. This is how they are kept clean. Rent here - MH 100 and Trek 100.
2. Backpack:
For a trek like Pir Panjal Lakes, you need a 50-60 litre backpack. Make sure your backpack has good hip support, shoulder support and quick access pockets. Here is a guide on how to choose a backpack.
| Buying Tip: Wildcraft, Decathlon and Adventure Worx usually make good backpacks. While Wildcraft has more expensive ones, the other two brands have budget-friendly backpacks to choose from.
| Rental: The 55-litre backpack is available for rent from the Indiahikes store. They are custom-made for our Himalayan treks. Rent them if you don’t have a backpack. Rent here.
3. Clothes:
Wearing layers is the mantra in the mountains. Layers give you maximum protection from all elements. And when the weather changes in the mountains (as it happens every few hours), you take off or put on layers as required.
Base layer:
3 T-shirts:
Wear one T-shirt and carry two. Carry full sleeve dry-fit T-shirts (preferably collared). These prevent your arms and neck from getting sunburnt. In the rarified air on the trek, especially at high altitudes, UV rays can burn you in no time.
Dry-fit T-shirts quickly dry your sweat, they are easy to wash and in case of a rainy day, they dry quicker. Round neck T-shirts are ok, but collared ones are better.
| Cotton or Synthetic? As Indians, we love cotton. Down in the plains when the heat is blistering 40°C it makes sense to wear cotton. But it takes a long time to dry when it gets wet. In the mountains, where it is cooler, synthetic is what you wear. They wick sweat rapidly and keep you dry. (But they do tend to smell quickly, so carry a roll-on deodorant with you.)
| Pro Tip: If you are extra susceptible to cold, you could get a set of thermal inners. In our experience, wearing two T-shirts over another works as a better thermal. And they save you weight and space since you’re already carrying them.
3 insulation layers:
The highest altitude you reach on this trek is 13,200 ft. At these altitudes, it can get cold even in the middle of summer. You will need at least 3 insulation layers for this trek.
You will need 2 light fleece layers and 1 full-sleeve light sweater. Do not get your grandma stitched sweaters, which can be very heavy. You need sweaters and fleece jackets that can fold into compact rolls.
1 Outer layer:
A padded jacket serves the purpose here. You don’t need a water-resistant material. But you need an outer padded jacket that keeps the wind and cold out. Ensure your padded jacket has a hood as well.
| Do you need a down/feather jacket? Not really. A regular padded/shell jacket will do. This video here will help you to learn more about the difference.
Note: Down/feather jackets are not available these days. Many jackets masquerade as down/feather jackets. They are essentially fine polyester-filled jackets. They mimic the function of a down jacket but are usually expensive.
| Rental: Padded jackets are available for rent at the Crosstrek Rental store. They are custom-made for Indiahikes and trekkers find them terrific, even in winter. Rent here.
Two trek pants:
Two pairs of trek pants should suffice for this trek. Wear one pair and carry two just in case it rains. Trek pants with zippered cut-offs at the thighs are very suitable for treks. Also, choose quick-dry pants over cotton. They dry up soon in case of small stream crossings/rain.
| Buying tip: Go for pants with zippered pockets. They come in handy to keep your phone, handkerchief or pocket snacks.
| Track pants or trek pants? Stretchable track pants make a good backup and can double up as your thermal bottoms. But track pants are not trekking pants -- so don’t use them as your main outerwear. Keep them only as a backup.
Mandatory Accessories, without these too you won’t be able to do the trek.
These accessories are mandatory. Don’t go to Pir Panjal Lakes Trek without them. Trekkers generally put off purchasing / borrowing the accessories for the last minute. We suggest the opposite. Start gathering these accessories first.
1. Sunglasses:
Sunglasses are to prevent snow blindness. On a trek like Pir Panjal Lakes, especially in early July expect to walk on long stretches of snow. A small overexposure to direct sunlight on snow can lead to snow blindness (about a half hour’s exposure). That’s because fallen snow is like thousands of mirrors that reflect direct UV rays. So you need sunglasses with UV protection.
| Tip: Try getting sunglasses that wrap around instead of those that have openings on the side. Even peripheral UV ray exposure is not a good idea.
Wear sunglasses if the trekking day is bright and sunny (on open sections, meadows). On a snowy section, you must never take off your sunglasses until the section has been fully crossed.
| Rental: The polarised hiking sunglasses are available for rent from the Indiahikes store. They are custom-made for our Himalayan treks. Rent them if you don’t have a pair of sunglasses. Rent here.
| If you wear spectacles: If you wear spectacles, you can get oversized sunglasses that you wear over your regular glasses (available at Decathlon). If that is cumbersome, photochromic lenses work equally well. Here’s a quick guide on managing sunglasses with spectacles.
| Contact lens users: If you use contact lenses, you can use them on the trek too. The lens solution will not freeze. You will also not face any problems in changing your lens in your tent. Just carry enough cleaning solution with you to clean your fingers well. Wear your sunglasses over your contact lens.
2. Suncap:
A sun cap is mandatory. Trekking without a sun cap can lead to headaches, sunstrokes, quick dehydration, and a sharp drop in trekking performance.
| Tip: In the mountains, the general rule is to keep your head covered at all times. During the day a sun cap protects you from the harsh rays of the sun (it is doubly stronger with naked UV rays). A sun cap keeps your body temperature in balance. In the evening/early morning, the reverse is true. Your head loses your body heat quickly. A woollen cap prevents heat from dissipating from your head.
| Buying Tip: The Crosstrek suncap is available for purchase at the Crosstrek Merchandise store. It is custom-made for our Himalayan treks with UV Protection and an adjustable strap. Buy here.
| Pro Tip: Sun caps with flaps are a blessing for trekkers. They cut out almost all UV leaks. They prevent sunburns in every possible way. They are a lot more effective than sunscreen lotion. A wide-brimmed sports hat also helps to prevent sunburn in a big way.
3. Synthetic hand gloves:
On a trek like Pir Panjal Lakes, you are going to be handling snow quite a bit if you trek in early July You’ll need gloves to grip something or to steady yourself in snow. You also want the gloves to keep you warm. Get synthetic hand gloves that have waterproofing on the outside and a padded lining on the inside. If you find the combination difficult to get (not likely), wear a tight-fitting fleece hand glove inside a synthetic hand glove. Hand gloves are mandatory on this trek. These are also very useful when it rains to keep your hands dry and warm.
| Buying tip: The Crosstrek Waterproof gloves are available at the Crosstrek Merchandise store. They are custom-made for our Himalayan treks. Buy here.
4. Woollen cap or Balaclava:
Ensure these cover your ears. In the cold mountains, you lose maximum heat from your head, not from your hands, feet or the rest of your body. This is why you need to keep your head protected, especially when the sun is down. Early mornings, late evenings, and a cold trekking day are when you must use your woollen cap.
Your ears are sensitive too, so a woollen head cap that covers your ears is essential. A balaclava is a modern version of the woollen cap. It covers your ears, neck and parts of your face as well. Do not get a woollen cap that only covers your head.
| Buying Tip: The Crosstrek Fleece cap and the Crosstrek neck warmer are available for purchase at the Crosstrek Merchandise store. Buy here - Crosstrek Fleece Cap and Crosstrek Neck Warmer.
5. Socks (3 pairs):
Apart from two sports socks, take a pair of woollen socks. Sports socks give you cushioning plus warmth. Again the mantra is to wear synthetic socks or at least a synthetic blend. Cotton socks soak in water and sweat. They are very hard to dry. As for woollen socks, they help you to keep warm and snug at the night. If you cannot get woollen socks, wearing two sports socks serves the purpose as well.
| Buying Tip: Waterproof socks are available for purchase at the Crosstrek Merchandise store. They are custom-made for our Himalayan treks. Buy here.
6. Headlamp:
Trekkers are often confused about whether they need to get a headlamp or a handheld torch. You need to get a headlamp because it leaves your hands free to do other activities. On the Pir Panjal Lakes trek you’ll need your hands free to wash dishes, pitch tents and hold your trek poles.
| Buying tip: Ensure your headlamp covers a wider area and is not too focused as a single beam. On a trek, your headlamp must help you see around you as much as ahead of you.
| Rental: Headlamps are available for rent at the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
7. Trekking pole (a pair):
Trekking poles give you stability and balance. They reduce your energy consumption by almost 40%. On the Pir Panjal Lakes trek there are steep ascents and descents. A pair of trekking poles will make the difference between a comfortable and a strenuous trek. In India, we tend to use a single trekking pole. However, two trekking poles give you greater stability and balance. They also increase your walking pace.
| Rental: Imported side-locking trekking poles are available for rent at the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
8. Rainwear:
On a trek, the weather can change quickly. A bright sunny day can turn into a downpour in a matter of minutes. Carry a poncho or a rain jacket to tackle this. A poncho is a big rain cover with openings for your arms and your head. It is extremely effective because it covers both you and your backpack. It is extremely light and weighs next to nothing.
Rain jackets are more streamlined and less cumbersome but weigh more. Rain pants are not required. Dry fit trek pants dry quickly even if soaking wet.
| Rental: High-grade ponchos are available for rent at the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
9. Rain cover for your backpack:
Backpacks are your life. You carry all your dry clothes and your warm gear in your backpack. Your backpack must stay dry at all times. Modern backpacks usually come with built-in rain-covers. If your backpack does not have a rain cover, ensure you get a rain cover by either (a) buying a rain cover or (b) or cutting a large plastic sheet to the size of your backpack. You can roll the plastic sheet around your backpack and keep it in place with a string or elastic.
| Rental Tip: Rain covers are available for rent at the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
| Pro tip: It's good practice to compartmentalise your clothes, accessories, and other things in plastic covers inside your backpack. That way, even if it rains and your backpack gets wet, your things are water-proof inside the backpack.
10. Daypack (20-30 ltrs, optional):
In your daypack, you carry essentials like water bottles, rainwear, emergency medicines, a headlamp, some snacks, and a warm layer. Your main backpack that carries most of your equipment is accessible only at the campsites.
A day pack is a smaller backpack that is usually of 20-30 ltr capacity. Laptop bags are not day packs. Do not get them.
Other mandatory requirements
1. A toilet kit:
Keep your toilet kit light. Carry just the basics -- toothbrush, toothpaste, small soap, toilet tissue roll, a small moisturiser, lip balm, and a roll-on deodorant. You will not be able to have a bath on the trek, so don’t overload on soaps and shampoos.
| Pro tip: Carry miniature-sized items. You will not need more than that. If you’re travelling in a group, share one toothpaste for all.
Avoid getting large toilet rolls. The smallest size roll is more than enough for a trek like Pir Panjal Lakes.
| For women: If you are likely to have your periods on your trek date, don’t worry about it. You can use your pads, tampons or menstrual cups on the trek. There will be toilet tents where you can get changed. Make sure you carry ziplock bags to bring back your menstrual waste. Don’t leave behind any waste in the mountains. Watch this video to learn how to dispose of your sanitary waste.
2. Cutlery:
Carry a lunch box, a coffee mug, and a spoon. Your lunch box must be leakproof. You are expected to wash your cutlery. Trekkers often expect Indiahikes to wash their cutlery. When you allow Indiahikes to wash your cutlery, your cutlery becomes part of a mass washing system. You immediately invite germs, and bacteria to settle on your cutlery. The incidence of stomach disorders rises exponentially.
| Pro tip: Carry stainless steel cutlery. Avoid fancy high-grade plastic cutlery. Stainless steel cutlery is infinitely easier to wash in cold water. Grease is easier to remove and hygiene is at its highest. Watch this video on why steel cutlery is better than plastic.
| Rental Tip 1: Tiffin boxes can be rented at the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
| Buying Tip: The 'Trekker for Life - All purpose mug' is available for purchase at the Crosstrek Merchandise store. Buy here.
3. Two 1 litre bottles or a 2-litre hydration pack:
Pir Panjal Lakes has long walking days. You need to carry two one-litre water bottles to keep yourself hydrated over the distance. If you are used to a hydration pack, then that is ok too. If one among the two bottles is a lightweight thermos, then that helps you to store warm water on a really cold day or for late evenings and early mornings.
| Rental Tip 2: You could rent lightweight thermos flasks from the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
| Rental Tip 3: Water bottles can be rented at the Crosstrek Rental store. Rent here.
4. Plastic covers:
Carry 3-4 old plastic covers to keep your used clothes. You could use them even for wet clothes. Re-use old plastic bags for this and do not buy new ones.
PRO TIPS
Keep important documents in a clear plastic cover and slide them into the inner pocket at the back of your backpack. This keeps them from getting wet.
These are documents required for legal purposes by Indiahikes and the forest department. Without any of these, you will not be allowed to trek.
- Original and photocopy of government photo identity card. ID cards of either Aadhar card or passport will do. This is required by the forest department for your identification.
- Disclaimer certificate: There are two sections in this. The first part is a personal medical record. The second part is a legal requirement. Download the PDF, read carefully, fill in and sign it. This must be handed over to your Trek Leader during registration at the base camp. – Download disclaimer certificate
- Medical certificate: The medical certificate needs to be filled out by an MBBS doctor, without which the forest department will not issue permissions for your trek. It is also a requirement by Indiahikes – Download medical certificate
Indiahikes has a panel of doctors who can help you with a medical certificate. They are available for online consultation. To get in touch with them, please write to trekmedicalcertificates@gmail.com. They will respond to you within 24 hours.
Consultation fee: Rs 300
Note: Please carry the above document with you. The document needs to be downloaded (PDF), filled in, signed, and handed over to the trek leader at the base camp. Please print these back-to-back on two sheets. Do not print separately and help in reducing paper usage.
Carry these medicines with you, easily accessible at all times. Do not take any medicine unless you have consulted your trek leader.
- Diamox (1 Strip): Be on a course of a half tablet of Diamox starting from Delhi every 12 hours (125 mg). Carry on the medication until you descend to Homwas. Being on a preventive course of Diamox greatly reduces the chances of Acute Mountain Sickness on the Pir Panjal Lakes trek.
- Dolo 650 (5 tablets): This is a paracetamol. It helps to tackle fever, mild pain
- Avomine (4 tablets): Carry this especially if you are prone to motion sickness. Pop one-half hour before the start of your road journey.
- Combiflam (5 tablets): Take a combiflam if you get a sudden twist of the leg or a muscle strain. It is a pain reliever. It also contains paracetamol.
- Digene (4 tablets): Take it if you feel the food that you’ve taken is undigested. Alert your trek leader immediately. It could be a sign of AMS.
- ORS (6 packs): Consume a pack of ORS water at least once a day, usually mid-day when you are in the middle of your trek. It replenishes essential salts lost while trekking. Tip: It also makes cold water easier to drink.
- Knee Brace (optional): Carry this if you are prone to knee injury or have known issues of knee pain.
Our trek leaders carry a high altitude medical kit with them which also consist of Life Saving Drugs. If there is an emergency our trek leaders know how to tackle it. Meanwhile, contact your trek leader before consuming any of these medicines listed here.
| Pro tip: We find that these medicines by trekkers are rarely used. But you cannot do away with them. At the end of the trek please donate unused medicines to your trek leader. Some of these medicines get distributed to villages on the trek and some are added to the Indiahikes medical kit.
We recommend jogging as the best routine to get fit for a trek. It works on the same muscles that you use while trekking — your calves, glutes and hamstrings. It helps increase your stamina day by day. It is also an easy routine that does not require any equipment or tools.
Fitness target:
To do this trek comfortably, you must be able to cover 5 km in under 32 minutes. This is the minimum fitness required for this trek.
How to achieve this fitness?
- Start jogging at least 4 days a week
- If you cannot run 5 km immediately, start with 2 km and increase to 5 km over 2-3 weeks.
- Once you’re able to run 5 km, increase your pace day by day.
- Gradually increase your pace and bring it down to 5 km in less than 32 mins.
- You must be able to run 5 km in 32 mins consistently for at least 2 weeks before the trek.
This trek requires at least 6-8 weeks of preparation. The longer, the better. So plan your trek soon and start preparing.
Here's a complete guide to get you trek fit.
Strength training tips:
How to get Fitness Approval from the Indiahikes team:
Every trekker needs fitness approval from the Indiahikes team 20 days before the trek date. Without this, you will not be allowed on the trek.
What to upload?
- A minimum of 3 screenshots of your runs/jogs/walks/cycling
- Monthly summary of your routine
Why fitness matters:
Every high-altitude trek comes with a set of challenges. Steep ascents and descents, uneven terrain, snow walks, stream crossings, pass crossings, and summit climb. Even the easiest of treks have some of these challenges if not all of them. Without fitness, trekkers struggle, get injured easily, lag behind, or simply fail to complete the trek.
At Indiahikes, we take pride in the fact that our trekkers are among the fittest in the country. Those who do not meet the fitness requirements are often sent back. Our philosophy is that trekking and fitness go hand in hand. Without fitness, there’s no trekking.
The Pir Panjal LakesTrek is close to 50 km long.
On this trek you will gain an altitude of over 7,300 ft in total over a period of 6 days to have an enjoyable experience.
The trail mostly follows the section of forests, clearings, then into the alpine meadows and stunning lakes.
Yes, it is safe to trek in Kashmir. Talking about Poonch, while the trek remains untouched during times of unrest, getting to the base camp or onto the trail might raise concerns in times of unrest.
So, here are certain pointers to keep in mind when you are travelling from Srinagar to Chandimarh:
- If you’re staying overnight at Srinagar, stay in touristy areas like Dal Lake or Lal Chowk.
- Blend in with the crowd in terms of dressing and behaviour.
- Avoid going to downtown areas. Stick to tourist spaces as they tend to be safer and well-protected during times of unrest
- Don’t panic if there is a curfew. Keep calm and wait for it to pass.
The Pir Panjal Lakes trek is situated in the Poonch Region of Jammu. The trek starts from a small village called Chandimarh near Behrangala, a picturesque hamlet, which is 60 km before Poonch.
The Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, which climbs to almost 13,330 ft, is rated as 'Moderate-Difficult'. This is because even though the highest altitude is not too high, you gain this altitude pretty quickly.
Each day, you gain an altitude of about 2,500 ft - 3,000 ft. This is not easy. You gain this altitude in a relatively shorter distance. That means it’s quite a climb on each day of the trek.
A moderate rating refers to marginally longer trekking days with a few steep climbs (example: climb to Nandansar or Laksukhsar). This makes it a notch more difficult than the easy-moderate treks.
A Himalayan trek like Pir Panjal Lakes trek requires a really good fitness level. The trek has long climbs and steep descents daily. As a measure of your fitness, we need you to:
Run at least 5 km in 32 minutes before your trek. Consistency of your workout also matters, so aim to jog 25 km a week or 100 km in a month. It's a minimum mandatory requirement if you wish to trek with us.
You will get mobile connectivity of Airtel, Jio and BSNL till the first campsite. After that the network is sketchy and almost non-existent.
Better to make sure you finish all your important telephone calls before starting your travel to the basecamp. Inform family members about poor connectivity during the trek.
Note: Prepaid SIM cards do not work in Kashmir.
As for electricity, you won’t have access to electricity or charging points anywhere during the trek.
We have a cloakroom facility available at the basecamp for extra luggage. It costs Rs 200 per luggage. You can keep up to 10 kg.
(The luggage could be a backpack/suitcase/duffel bag or anything similar.).
Yes, offloading is available on the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek. The fee for this will be Rs 5,040 for the whole trek.
However, at Indiahikes, we strongly discourage offloading as it is not sustainable. Therefore, opt for offloading only if you have any medical conditions.
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Expert Speak
Suhas Saya
Head, DIY Team
Suhas Saya
Head, DIY Team
Suhas is the head of the DIY and Documentation Team. He has been working at Indiahikes for the past 7 years. Nature, adventure, and wildlife are the top things that get his heart racing. He has done more than 14 Himalayan treks - a few of them are Roopkund, Kuari Pass, Dayara Bugyal, Buran Ghati, Kashmir Great Lakes, and Warwan Valley. He has done a few explorations in the Himalayas, the Western Ghats, and around Bengaluru. And it was he who explored the grand Phulara Ridge trek. Suhas was also involved in the exploration of the Pir Panjal Lakes trek.
Highlights of the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek
Suhas Saya
Head, DIY Team
Suhas is the head of the DIY and Documentation Team. He has been working at Indiahikes for the past 7 years. Nature, adventure, and wildlife are the top things that get his heart racing. He has done more than 14 Himalayan treks - a few of them are Roopkund, Kuari Pass, Dayara Bugyal, Buran Ghati, Kashmir Great Lakes, and Warwan Valley. He has done a few explorations in the Himalayas, the Western Ghats, and around Bengaluru. And it was he who explored the grand Phulara Ridge trek. Suhas was also involved in the exploration of the Pir Panjal Lakes trek.
1. Ten Stunning Alpine Lakes
If you are looking for lakes trek in Jammu, it has to be the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek. On this trek, not one or two, you come across 10 beautiful alpine Lakes.
To reach these lakes, you have to trek for 4 days in the remote untouched forests and meadows of Poonch. Once you get to the lakes, you get to explore all of them in the next two days. You are in for a treat!
What is even better is you get to camp next to Chandansar - one of the bigger lakes.
The beautiful Nandansar. Picture by Nithyam Nachappa.
2. Camping Experience on the endless Meadows of Poonch
If there is a list of treks known for their terrific campsites, the Pir Panjal Lakes Trek definitely ranks among the top ones. The campsites on this trek are on the vast meadows of Poonch, with a lot to explore around. They are so huge that even an entire day is not enough to explore around completely.
There are small hills to climb. There are clusters of coniferous trees to delve in. There are specific sunset points to experience the best of the golden hour. There are vantage points that offer the best views of the valley. Not just the valley, you get stunning mountain views too.
If you want to experience camping at its best, you should definitely add this trek to your bucket list.
The meadows on this trek are secluded, lush green and make you want to just roll on them. Picture by Nithyam Nachappa.
3. Forests and the elements of surprise
The forests on the trek are another highlight. On the very first day, you trek in this beautiful mixed, dense forest dominated by coniferous trees. The trees are so huge and tall that it almost feels like their tips are touching the sky. Adding to it, the forest section on this trek is much longer compared to typical Kashmir treks. It is dense and filled with sounds of the forest.
What makes trekking in these forest sections more magical are the clearings that are perfectly placed throughout. Every 1 - 1.5 km in the forest, you come across these beautiful clearings that are perfect rest points.
Along with that, with every turn, things just change so much on this trek. Change in the landscape, the mountains, the setting. It throws everybody by surprise. This makes trekking in these forests all the more exciting with trekking on the ledges and ridges of the mountain.
The dense coniferous forest section. Picture by Nithyam Nachappa.
Leaving Mountains Better
Green Trails is our promise to leave the mountains better. We have removed over 1 lakh kilos of the waste left behind by others on trekking trails. Yet this is a small percentage of what we do. Green Trails dives into reducing the use of resources, reducing our carbon footprint and bringing about a change in the daily practices of our trekkers too.
Trekker Reviews
Dr Shreya Singhi
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Souvik Banik
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Aditya Rathod
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Dr Hardik Pitroda
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Mayank Khare
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Dr Shreya Singhi
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Souvik Banik
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Aditya Rathod
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
Dr Hardik Pitroda
Pir Panjal Lakes Trek, Sept 2023
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