You gotta climb the mountain to get the view: Tulian Lake
You gotta climb the mountain to get the view: Tulian Lake
Category Trekker Stories
By Mr Ashwini Mehra
2024-09-25
‘Everyone wants to go to heaven but no one wants to die’ so said Steve Jobs once. The latter part of his words are as true for me as also for possibly everyone reading this. Quite early in life, I chose to find my own heaven on earth even in the smallest of things around me, be it during a walk around my residence complex or during my travels or a soulful music composition. As part of this endeavor of seeking heaven on earth, I drop all my work engagements for a few days every year and take off to some lesser known, consequently less spoilt place, preferably in the lap of nature.
I had successfully done a 4 day trekking program in Goa, with my son, during the peak monsoon season last year, which involved climbing a different set of slushy hills every day, getting drenched in the torrential rain as we walked, to witness the 3 or 4 most gorgeous seasonal waterfalls. Spurred by this, I decided to take to the Himalayan mountains this year. My son suggested that we look for treks organized by India Hikes (IH), a fantastic Bangalore and Dehra Dun based organization. After much research sometime in early March, we shortlisted and booked ourselves on a five day ‘moderate’ trek to the pristine splendor of Tulian Lake, starting in the third week of August.
As you reach the summit, nestled between the majestic mountain ranges of Pir Panjal and Zanskar, a sight emerges, that takes your breath away - The Tulian Lake. Picture by Jothiranjan, Head of Photography team at Indiahikes.
Given my age, viz. the wrong side of 60s, the fitness criteria are a little more stringent as per IH policy which, inter alia, insists on a satisfactory TMT report. While I never had any doubt about this fitness test, I only decided to intensify my regular morning regimen with an increased proportion of cardio to prepare for the trek. I was glad I challenged myself in this preparatory period as the trek tested my physical & mental endurance to the hilt, much beyond my preparedness.
Armed with our medical fitness certificates, some basic medicines (including one called ‘Diamox’ for high altitude acclimatization), some IH specified clothing (like quick dry track pants) and other necessary items, my son and I arrived at a very warm, sunny Srinagar after over 5 hours of flying on August 19th . We headed straight to SBI’s Guest House on the busy Residency Road, adjacent to the renowned restaurant, Ahdoos, where my son got his fill of delicious local ‘Wazwan’ food. That very evening we strolled down and picked up our ponchos (rain wear) and track bands (adjustable walking sticks) from an HI affiliated tour agency so as to be in full readiness for the trek commencing next day.
Early next morning, before the break of dawn, my son and I walked down the empty streets to the start point viz. the same tour agency. There, we briefly met with the other 19 members of our trekking group as also our very young, boyish Trek Leader named Isop (native of Tripura), appointed by IH. A couple of Tempo Travelers drove us down in 2 hours to the trek start point, Ganesh Bal, a couple of KMs ahead of Pahalgam. During the bus journey, we witnessed the reassuring presence of the army and the paramilitary every few KMs as also the multitude of shops near Anantnag predominantly selling saffron and Kashmir willow cricket bats. A bio-break in the ‘apple valley’ gave us a chance to view huge orchards full of trees laden with bunches of ripening apples. Moving on, after a stopover for breakfast of paratha, potato curry and tea at a native’s house (where two locals joined us as trek guides), we reached Ganesh Bal to a rainy welcome.
Out came our ponchos and off we were trudging on the way to our first stop at Deno Valley, about 5 km away. After the first km, the village trails vanished and we entered a thick forest of huge, tall coniferous trees. After crossing a couple of difficult river points in the midst of our climb of over 2,000 ft., we reached our campsite amidst the beautiful meadows of Deno valley (over 6000ft. above MSL) late that afternoon. We spent the evening frolicking in the gorgeous neighborhood, letting the awe-inspiring beauty of our surroundings sink in.
Picture from the Indiahikes archives.
The next day was a more arduous almost 7 km steep climb through a thicker alpine forest to our next camp at a place called Kanimool at about 8,500 ft. above MSL. Given the intermittent rain spells, we took almost 7 hours to do the stretch. Once again, at the beautiful camp site, we were surrounded by sheer, tall mountains, some with thick groves of pine trees at their lower reaches, overwhelming us with nature’s bounty. Walking around the camp area amidst grazing horses and noisy sheep, I felt indebted to the Almighty for such soul touching experiences in my life.
We then trekked through similar terrain, the next sunny morning, for 4 km to our next stop, 2 km short of the summit. This stop was at Tulian Valley at 10,500 ft. above MSL where we set up camp adjacent to the picturesque Tulian River, around some of the most spectacular and varied landscapes, depending on the direction your gaze went and on the time of the day. That evening, the excitement in our group of making it to the summit the next morning was overflowing and reflected in the mood of merriment, pre and post dinner. Songs, laughter, jokes, mimicry, star gazing, you had it all. You can well imagine my feeling when I finally lay down in my tent, shared with my son, next to the musical river, a most relaxing sleep gently creeping over me, as I tucked into my cozy sleeping bag.
The boulder-laden section to the Tulian lake. Picture by Rishivar Mukherjee.
The climb, the next beautiful and bright day, to the Lake was, fortunately, without our backpacks but through steep, boulder laden, undiscernible paths; a two hour walk to the summit and two hours for return with the most joyous 2 hours at the overwhelmingly beautiful and unspoilt Tulian lake at over 12,000 ft. above MSL. Undisturbed by human habitation for miles and miles around it, the Lake quietly left its indelible mark on each one’s heart. On returning to the camp, I, as the oldest member of the team, had the honor of cutting the celebration cake made by our cook.
On the last day, we headed back and walked all of 7-8 km downhill through thick forests and undulating hills and meadows, straight to the start point, Ganesh Bal. After the chest thumping and farewell hugs, we boarded the waiting Tempo Travelers which whisked us back to the warm, dusty, bustling, and crowded streets of Srinagar.
I count this as one of my most memorable treks where I spent 5 days trekking through pristine valleys, beside deep gorges and through thick alpine forests as also unbridled, gorgeous streams of clear water under the constant gaze of towering glacial peaks to a lake of indescribable beauty. The humbling majesty of Nature effectively brought home my own insignificance in the entire order of this universe. I must, however, confess that my endurance and will power were tested like never before. On many a difficult phase, I drew on my reserves of will power, physical strength and energy, focusing on a somewhat comforting thought that there is a rainbow of delights waiting for me and my camera at the end of the grueling walk. The subconscious knowledge that my son was around for my support day in, day out was a huge added comfort. As they say, altitude tests your attitude, more than your aptitude. Moreover, the heartwarming bonds built with fellow trekkers hailing from all over the country, formed the invaluable fringe benefits of the expedition. Life truly enriched! Where next?
Trekkers in comparison to the majestic Tulian lake. Picture by Jothiranjan.
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