The Complete Guide to Kamalgad

Kamalgad is a classic fort trek in the Sahyadris. It takes you to the ruins of an ancient fort hidden amidst the dense scrub forests of Maharashtra’s Satara district. The fort's mysterious rectangular shape stands on a hilltop, overlooking the Nandgane village. Thick vegetation covers the fort from the base up to its flat roof.

The main surprise comes once you reach the summit. You climb stone steps through a forest and then climb a metal ladder leading to the fort’s terrace. On the terrace, you are greeted by an incredible aerial view of the Dhoom reservoir on the Krishna River. This huge expanse of calm, blue water takes you by surprise. Legendary highlands of Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani, and Koleshwar stand all around it.

The variety on this trek is incredible. You trek through dense forests, narrow alleyways and eventually arrive at the summit. You even meet a solitary Dhangar family in a secluded clearing amidst the forest.

Add to this the mysterious aura surrounding this fort. Nobody knows for sure who built Kamalgad or when it was built. After being used by the Marathas for some time, it was taken over by the British in 1818.

On the rocky top of the fort, there is a deep shaft. Some believe it was a quarry for red geru stone back in the day. Other theories link this shaft to a deep well. Criminals were said to have been placed in recesses on its steep walls. The prisoners, then, had to choose between starvation and throwing themselves down into the water. This story gives Kamalgad its other name – “Kattalgad”, the fort of death. 

Can beginners attempt this trek? The trek to Kamalgad from Nandgane village is around 5.5 km one-way. The round trip from Nandgane to Nandgane can be comfortably completed in 4-5 hrs. Once you climb to the plateau behind Nandgane, the approach to the fort is also quite gradual. This route has no tricky or majorly difficult sections. So, beginners, and even children, can safely attempt this trek.

Total Trek Distance (one-way Nandgane Village to Kamalgad): 5.5 Km
Highest Point: 4,500 ft at Kamalgad

➤What to Watch out for

1.  The Views from Kamalgad’s Roof

From the summit, you see the most striking geographical features of Maharashtra. The entire spread from the Mahabaleshwar plateau to the legendary Krishna river and the backwaters of Dhoom Dam is right in front of you. But, what is more striking is how you walk through forests and climb through narrow alleyways to suddenly arrive at this vista. The views take you by surprise and stay with you for long.

2. Forest and Meadows

The entire trek is interspersed with dense scrub forests. You don't really understand how dense these jungles of jambul and pisa trees grow until you try walking off the marked trails. If you try doing that, the jungles just engulf you and it's extremely easy to get lost. If you get lucky, you also get to see blooming karvi flowers in these forests.

But when you are not navigating forest sections, you walk on beautiful open meadows. These lush green landscapes are lifelines for local villagers. Their livestock rely heavily on the meadows for grazing.

These meadows and forests also have small, natural water holes. You will find buffaloes resting in these puddles. Local villagers have deep cultural ties with some of these water-holes, that provide water and shelter for their livestock.

3. The History of the Fort and Cultural Elements on the Trail

The aura of mystery surrounding the fort is a highlight in itself. Its origins remain a mystery. Initially used by the Marathas, it fell to the British in 1818.

On the roof, you see a deep rocky shaft, called the kavechi veer. Some historians believe it to be a quarry for geru stone, valued for its medicinal mud. Mythology ties it to a darker tale of prisoners being confined in its steep recesses, forced to choose between starvation or leaping to their deaths below. Another legend speaks of a hidden tunnel linking Kamalgad to Raireshwar Fort. Infiltrators attempting to use it were reportedly crushed by heavy stones rolled down the narrow passage. Such grim tales earned Kamalgad its other name, Kattalgad – the Fort of Death.

In a forest clearing, you find a solitary Dhangar family. Dhangars are one of the region’s earliest inhabitants and a prominent ethnic group in Satara. While they practice settled farming, their identity is deeply tied to livestock. Take a moment to explore their unique culture and way of life.

On the trek, you even cross the ancient Gorakshyanath shrine, which finds mention in colonial-era Gazettes, dating back to the 1800s.

4. Driving Along the Dhoom Dam from Wai

The drive from Wai to the basecamp is a scenic journey along the backwaters of Dhoom Dam. The calm blue waters, framed by lush green hills, make it a soothing experience. Once at the basecamp, you can dive into fun with activities like boating on the reservoir.

➤ Suggested Itinerary

Day 1: Reach the Indiahikes Campus by 11 am on your own

Have lunch with the Indiahikes team. The campus is set right on the banks of the reservoir formed on Krishna river by the Dhom-Balkawadi dam. Go on a familiarisation walk around the area. Spend the evening sharing stories. Have dinner and retire for the night.

Day 2: Start early for the trek. Come back to the campus and leave.

Post-breakfast, an Indiahikes vehicle shall drive you to Nandgane village. Trek to Kamalgad from Nandgane. Have a packed lunch on the way.
Return to the campus by 4 pm, wind up and leave by 5 pm.

➤ Detailed Trail Information

The trek begins at Nandgane village. Beyond Nandgane, the trek can be divided into four distinct sections :

1. Nandgane Village to the Start of Ridgewalk
2. Ridgewalk up to Gorakshyanath Temple
3. Gorakshyanath Temple to Dhangar Settlement
4. The Final Ascent to Kamalgad Fort Terrace

Section I: Nandgane Village to Start of Ridge Walk

Trek distance: 2.8 km
Trek duration: 60-75 mins

The trek to Kamalgad begins with a gradual ascent through the houses and farms of the Nandgane village. Just about 600 m into the climb, you arrive at the base of a spur.

Walk up the narrow red-soil trail that ascends along this spur. Short green grass covers the slopes on either side of this trail. These meadows are lush and green during monsoon. You may come across villagers grazing their cattle here.

As you go higher, you get glimpses of the Dhoom reservoir. These are the backwaters of Dhoom Dam, built on the Krishna River.

Around the 1.8 km mark, you arrive at a viewpoint. One entire half of the reservoir is now visible below you. If you look up, you can see the flat-topped Kamalgad looming in the distance. Stop here for a little breather.

The trail continues to climb consistently till the 2 km mark. After that, you enter a short forest patch and the gradient of ascent also eases up a bit.

After walking about 800 m through these scrub forests, you arrive at an opening. This is the starting point of the ridge that leads to Gorakshyanath Temple.

Section II: Ridgewalk up to Gorakshyanath Temple

Trek distance: 1 km
Trek duration: 45 mins

The trail on the ridge ascends gradually through a dense forest section of jambul, pisa trees and bushy vegetation. The trail is muddy and can get slippery after rains.

You arrive at a junction 300 m into the ridge walk. Here, a trail from Vasole village merges with the trail from Nandgane. Continue along the trail that you are on. Ahead of the junction, forests open up for a bit.

But in another 200 m, forests resume. After trekking for about 300 m on a mud trail through this forest patch, you arrive at a pebbly section. The trail also begins to climb steeply at this point. Navigate this section carefully till you reach a clearing again. This is where the Gorakshyanath Temple is situated.

Although you see a renovated structure now, its origins are ancient. This Gorakshyanath shrine finds mention in colonial-era Gazettes, dating back to the 1800s.

This temple also marks the end of the ridge. A forested plateau begins beyond it.

Section III: Gorakshyanath Temple to Dhangar Settlement

Trek distance: 1 km
Trek duration: 30 mins

Walk past the Gorakshyanath temple into a densely forested section. Always keep to the mud trail that you are in. You can easily lose your way if you wander off the trails. In this forest, you come across small, natural water holes. These are a lifeline for locals and their cattle alike.

Proceed along the marked route and climb gradually onto a plateau. Once you reach the plateau, the gradient eases into a flat walk.

At the 700 m mark from the Gorakshyanath Temple, this forest suddenly opens up into a clearing. You see thatched mud huts, farmlands and grazing cattle. This is home to a Dhangar family.

Dhangars are among the earliest inhabitants of the region. They are one of the most prominent ethnic groups in the entire Satara district. While they do practise settled agriculture, livestock has traditionally been the Dhangars' identity.

Take some time to explore this settlement. Learn about the Dhangar ways of living and cattle-rearing. Talk to them about their age-old ways of producing fine-quality ghee. You can also have some fresh chaas or buttermilk here.

Section IV: The Final Ascent to Kamalgad Fort Terrace

Trek distance: 0.8 km
Trek duration: 30 mins

Beyond the Dhangar huts, you enter the dense scrubs again. Keep walking along the muddy trail through the forest.

In 10-15 mins you arrive at a staircase, cut into stone. This is the base of the fort. Climb up these stairs until you reach an iron ladder. This ladder takes you to the roof of the fort.

Incredible views open up on the roof. The Krishna River, the Dhoom reservoir, and the legendary highlands of Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani and Koleshwar are all there right in front of you.

While walking on this roof, you will also find a deep shaft with a stony staircase leading to the bottom. This well is locally called the kavechi veer.

Some historians believe this to have been an old quarry for geru stone. The mud from the geru stone, that settled at the base of this shaft, was also utilised by locals for its medicinal qualities.

Other theories link this well to a more sinister story. Criminals were said to have been placed in recesses on its steep walls. The prisoners, then, had to choose between starvation and throwing themselves down into the water. This story gives Kamalgad its other name – “Kattalgad”, the fort of death.

➤ Best Time to do the Kamalgad Trek

Kamalgad remains accessible throughout the monsoon months (July-September), autumn (October-November) and even during winter (December-January). From February onwards, it gets too sunny. So, the ideal time for planning a trek to Kamalgad would be between June and January.

However, the trek changes noticeably between monsoon and winter.

In monsoon,  the meadows and the forest are lush. Between August and October, you may even find purple karvi flowers blooming along the trail. Planning the trek in the late monsoon can help you avoid direct rain without missing out on the monsoon experience.

You can also do this trek in winter. It is an entirely different but equally grand experience. The air is crisp and the views are clear. The clear blue skies of winter, set against the yellow shades of grass, have a unique charm.

Since you walk under the open sky for an extensive period, trekking in summer is not recommended.

➤ How to reach Kamalgad Trek

The Kamalgad Trek starts from Nandgane. It is well-connected by roadways. You can drive all the way up to Nandgane, which is about 125 km from Pune and 260 km from Mumbai. The drive from Mumbai takes 6-7 hrs, while Nandgane is a 3-4 hrs drive from Pune.
Satara, 93 km away, is the closest airport. But flight connectivity to Satara is patchy.

Use the map below to reach Nandgane or the Indiahikes Base from Mumbai, Pune or Satara. Zoom in to see the trekking trail (marked in yellow) to Kamalgad from Nandgane.

How can I reach the base for Kamalgad by Public Transport ?

1. Reaching Nandgane
   
   Whether you are travelling from Satara, Pune or Mumbai, the best access to Nandgane is via Wai.
   
   Details of buses plying from Mumbai Central to Wai are available on the MSRTC Website.
   
   From Pune, the there are many private buses that ply daily to Wai.
   
   From Satara to Wai, there is only one early morning bus that you can book online. There might be other State Transport options available from Satara but you would need to explore their timetable locally.
   
   Ahead of Wai, you will find local buses and shared jeeps for Nandgane. While buses are cheaper, the jeeps are faster.
   
   
2. Reaching Indiahikes Base
   
   The Indiahikes Base for the Kamalgad trek is about 6 km from Nandgane. Golewadi is the nearest bus stop. The best access to Golewadi is also via Wai. From Wai, Golewadi is about an hour’s drive.

How can I reach the base for Kamalgad by Personal Vehicle ?

1. Reaching Nandgane
   Nandgane is well-connected by tarred roads. You can drive to the village.
   Click here to locate Nandgane on the Google Map.
   
   
2. Reaching Indiahikes Base
   The Indiahikes Base is well-connected by tarred roads. You can drive directly to the base.
   Click here to locate the Indiahikes Base on the Google Map.

➤ Frequently Asked Questions about Kamalgad Trek

1. Is there any permission required to do the Kamalgad Trek?

Kamalgad Trek does not come under any protected area. So you do not need any permit to do this trek.

2. How difficult is the Kamalgad Trek?

The trek to Kamalgad from Nandgane village is around 5.5 km one-way. The round trip from Nandgane to Nandgane can be comfortably completed in 4-5 hrs. Once you climb to the plateau behind Nandgane, the approach to the fort is also quite gradual. This route has no tricky or majorly difficult sections. So, beginners, and even children, can safely attempt this trek.

3. Can we camp in Kamalgad?

There is no suitable space to camp at the fort. However, you can stay at the Dhangar settlement that you cross just before the final ascent to the fort. Basic homestay facility is available. 

4. Are there any food stalls and water sources on the Kamalgad trek?

There are no food stalls on the Kamalgad trek except at the Dhangar settlement that you cross just before the final ascent to the fort. However, water sources are rare. Even though you find streams inside the forest during monsoon, they are muddy and may not be potable. The small water holes in the forests or meadows are frequently used by cattle. So it is not safe to drink from them either.
The only place where you can refill your bottles is at the Dhangar Settlement.

But we strongly recommend you to carry enough water (2-3 litres) with you for the entire trek.

Tip: Carry purification tablets or life straw bottles in case you must drink from the sources along the way.

5. Why is Kamalgad also called Kattalgad?

On the roof, you see a deep rocky shaft, called the kavechi veer. Some historians believe it to be a quarry for geru stone, valued for its medicinal mud. Mythology ties it to a darker tale of prisoners being confined in its steep recesses, forced to choose between starvation or leaping to their deaths below. Another legend speaks of a hidden tunnel linking Kamalgad to Raireshwar Fort. Infiltrators attempting to use it were reportedly crushed by heavy stones rolled down the narrow passage. Such grim tales earned Kamalgad its other name, Kattalgad – the Fort of Death.

6. What is the history of Kamalgad?

Nobody knows for sure who built Kamalgad or when it was built. After being used by the Marathas for some time. In April 1818, Kamalgad surrendered after a slight resistance to a British detachment under Major Thatcher.

7. Is Kamalgad near Kenjalgad and Pandavgad?

There 14 major hills in the region, which are together called the "Wai Hills". These are Baleghar, Dhamna, Harli, Kamalgad, Kenjalgad, Mandhardev, Panchgani, Pandavgad, Pipli, Sonjai, Vagdera, Vandan, Vairatgad, and Yeruli. Five of them are hill forts-- Kamalgad, Pandavgad, Vairatgad, Vandan, and Kenjalgad.

8. Can I see Dhoom Dam from Kamalgad?

From the roof of the fort, you see the entire spread of Dhoom Dam's calm, blue backwaters. The entire drive from Wai Bus Stand to the base of the trek also winds along the beautiful blue expanse of the Dhoom Reservoir.

9. What is the distance of Kamalgad trek from Pune?

Kamalgad is about 125 km from Pune and is accessible by both private and public transportation means.

10. Can I do Kamalgad Trek alone?

Yes you can do the trek alone. But it is very easy to get lost in the forests if you wander off the trails. So, we recommend going in a group or taking a local guide along.

What to pack for Kamalgad Trek

➤ Places to Visit after the Kamalgad Trek

1. Panchgani Table Top Trek: The trek to Panchgani Plateau starts from the Silverdale High School, which is just 12 km from Wai Bus Stand. You can plan this trek after Kamalgad. Panchgani Plateau is the second largest in Asia after the famous Tibetan Plateau.
   
2. Parsi Point: Parsi Point is a beautiful viewpoint, within 15 km of the Wai Bus Stand. Take a leisurely walk to the top and relish expansive views of the Dhoom Dam.
   
3. Dhoom Dam: The Dhoom Dam forms a beautiful reservoir on the Krishna River. You start seeing its backwaters as soon as you start the drive towards Nandgane from Wai. It remains with you throughout and you get to witness its full expanse from the roof of Kamalgad. After the trek, you can also choose to enjoy activities like boat rides on the Dhoom reservoir.
   
4. Kenjalgad and Pandavgad Treks: Of the 14 hills of Wai, five of them-- Kamalgad, Pandavgad, Vairatgad, Vandan, and Kenjalgad-- have a fort at their summit. After Kamalgad, you can attempt Kenjalgad and Pandavgad, which are easily accessible from Wai. While base for Kenjalgad is around 25 km from Wai, Pandavgad is within 10 km.
   

➤ Trek Contribution

Trek documented by Varsha More, Nitesh Kumar and Upayan Chatterjee

Banner Image: Varsha More